Shooting from the hip and hitting bulls eye

Wainwrights: Grange Fell, Castle Crag

Weather was going to be iffy today, so we had no real plan in the morning. Clouds were very low. Probably as low as 300m in places so we took our time in the morning cooking up some more gorgeous black pudding sausages from the local butcher. Along with smoked streaky bacon, an egg each and some cheese we had the most glorious breakfast bap!

Into town we went to get some more stuff from the same butcher and make plans over a coffee. The cloud wasn't lifting much yet, so we decided to drive the 15mins down along Derwent Water into Borrowdale and head up two of the lower fells there. Much of the 10k loop would be sheltered and we had options to cut the walk short too.

Apparently, having the National Trust badge in the car is no longer enough to park for free,  you now need to scan your membership card at the machine. Too bad I didn't mine. Duh. We also couldn't come up with £6 in cash (coins). Who does these days?! So we left the Bowder Stone car park and parked up in a layby around the corner... for free. Clock said quarter to 2pm.

Through woodland we walked and once we left the National Trust property and joined  another foot path we were all alone. Up we went through light woods on a grassy and rocky path. It was so humid... We were drenched in sweat only a few minutes into the climb. Views towards Rosthwaite and beyond were getting better the higher we got.
Glaramara was dominating the scene and I remembered the endless slog I had endured at the end of a very long day clambering over its many summits trying to find the way down into the valley. It's a behemoth of a mountain that on its own would surely get the attention it deserves but right in the middle of so many other big names is probably often overlooked.

Quick break taking it all in

Anyway, we were on the even more overlooked "minor" fells and all the folks that queue up the likes of Scafell Pike or the Old Man surely miss out on something great here.
We dropped out of the trees and climbed the last bit up to King's How. Not a Wainwright, not on any ticklist  I know, and a hell of a great climb up here and a killer view over Derwent Water all the way to Keswick with the Skiddaw Range behind it. Fantastic little fell that one!

View from King's How towards Keswick

Through typical British hill side we went over to Grange Fell. Lots of lumps and bumps, heather and rock. We loved every bit of it!
The top of Grange Fell was a playground for scrambling, left and right of the path rose a handful of rocky outcrops begging to be climbed.
We had some fun for a bit and eventually rejoined the main path again. Down we went alongside some more woods and down into Rosthwaite for some afternoon sandwiches and a lager shandy at the local hotel restaurant.

It simply doesn't look like that in perfect sunshine.

On Grange Fell

Heading down to Roswaithe

It was already 5pm when we left after a surprisingly good small meal.
Up the not so steep grassy slope towards Castle Crag on the other side of the valley we went and joined a broad gravel path turning North back towards Derwent Water. More stunning views opened up. What a varied walk again!
I was keen on bagging Castle Crag and we veered off the main path to tick it off. Would've been a shame not to, since we were already here.

We were not expecting the huge pile of sleet we found not far from the top. What the...?! Up we went on a path winding through all that sleet only to find something of an outdoor art gallery at the next plateau. People had not only built piles of sleet but had also erected slates along the path and built all sorts of installations.
It was just weird and special and something we absolutely didn't expect. You choose a route on the map and it looks nice, but it doesn't prepare you for this! Just awesome!

Sleet, so much sleet!

 On Castle Crag

An art installation on Castle Crag

Cautiously we made our way down to the main path again, and were back in woodland soon after.
Rich found and easy crossing of the river dropping us out at the road where we parked much sooner than going around the long way. Saved us maybe 20mins.

It was already just before 7pm. Love those long days of daylight.
What an amazing little walk we had! 10.5k with such varied landscape. And we had only just made it up over a coffee.

Seems like you simply can't go wrong in the Lakes. Pick any walk from the map. Seriously anything. And you get something great. Today was probably one of the best days I've had so far up here. Maybe because I now simply enjoy what I've got and am not desperately after ticking off hills. I've also realised that you often get a much more epic view from lower hills. Seeing the big ones in dramatic light today was amazing. And feeling like you found something special in King's Fell, Grange Fell and Castle Crag. Cracker of a day, especially when it didn't look like it at all in the morning!

Plans Are There to Be Changed

We tried for an earlier start again this mooring and sure enough we left the camp site around 9:30 heading for Glenridding to do Striding Edge today,  as it was the last good weather day if the forecasts were to be believed. I wanted Rich to have his Scramble of the holiday and Striding Edge had been on our list for quite a while now.

We were stopped short only five minutes after setting off having to divert due to the A66 being closed off. West instead of East we went, stopped at a layby to find an alternative route.
With all those deep valleys in the Lake District,  a detour normally adds a lot of time, since you rarely ever can go the direct way.  There are usually mountains in the way.
We considered doing a long horseshoe walk much closer to our location, but a 5-6 hour commitment didn't seem attractive.
So we changed plans from Striding Edge to some hills near Thirlmere, which was only a five minute drive from our camp site.

Wound our way through traffic and arrived near Thirlmere 10:15am only to find our intended route closed off due to fallen trees. We simply couldn't win today. Quick look at the map we found a short walk from here,  up the hill, along the ridge and down again. Funny enough it was rather close to our original plan, just tackling the same ridge from a different angle.

Finally started walking at 10:30. Once more we had to overcome a very steep ascent straight from the start which had us sweating soon. It was generally overcast with a few sunny spells,  but it was warm  again and quite humid.
Scenery was different one more. Yesterday had been rock, rock and then some more rock. Today was some rock, some grass and the hills yellow, brown and barren.

Nice views back down towards Keswick. 

 Brown Crag and behind it some Lakeland V.I.Ps

After just over a kilometre the angle eased a bit, time for a quick break hunched behind a rock which sheltered us at least a little bit from the fairly cold and very steady wind today.

Up on the Sticks Path we went to a saddle were it led down to Glenridding. We turned right to do some more climbing until we reached the rocky top of Raise. 

Heading up Raise

View from the top

Being on the Helvellyn ridge it is easily forgotten with such a famous fell so close nearby. We actually quite liked it. The view over to said  Helvellyn and its two famous ridge scrambles was fantastic. All the fells in the the distance were gradually being obfuscated by more and more haze, still we could make out the likes of Pillar or Bowfell amongst the bluish great silhouettes.

Down we went and the short way up to Whiteside then down once more on its other site to a saddle. Here we had some lunch first and were supposed to pick up a path but couldn't see one really. Only something resembling a sheep's track further on. Well it was heading into the right direction so we freelanced a bit along the grassy hill side until we found the actual path, which still was far film obvious. The joys of British hill walking. This time it was actually quite fun.

Found the path

Eventually reached the outcrop of Brown Crag. And steeply wound our way down through low bracken and lately along a wall back to the car. Bugs were bidding around us aplenty and we both constantly ran hands through hair and along arms to brush away any blind passengers.

Back at the car 14:30 We headed back to the campsite, had a bit of a chill, a well earned shower and afternoon tea at The Hayloft. Some more chilling in the tent as the by now very low cloud finally released some rain.
Rich had a wee snooze before we headed out to the renown Pheasant Inn near Cockermouth, for our 8pm booking.  We had been here a few days before and really found a liking to the place. It's classy without being posh, it's cosy and if you look up "Country Pub" you might well find a photo of it.

The starters were amazing, mains good, but a bit disappointing. We were missing the twist with our pies. Rich had a fish pie, I had a cottage pie. In a place like this you expect everything to be exceptional and especially traditional dishes must stand out from all the other places that serve them.

 Haggis Scotch Egg with mushroom dip. Superb. 

We had just about room for a dessert. Not often I have one, but can't say no to cheesecake!
We were both rolling out of there, back teeth floating. I didn't even finish my dessert, and I rarely ever leave anything on the plate, but I physically couldn't stuff more in.

Not yet sure what we're doing tomorrow. The weather is a bit so-so. We have an idea but will see how it all looks tomorrow morning. After so much food, a later start is they only thing that is for sure. And some walking.

Lakeland Grandeur

Wainwrights: Red Pike, High Stile, High Crag

Just back from another crackin' day in the Lake District chilling at The Hayloft, our camp site's very own and pretty decent restaurant, shipping Old Rosie. If you want to get pickled after just one pint, right after some outdoors exercise,  this 7% cider will do the trick nicely.

Drove down to Buttermere a bit later than expected, but we had to pay the local butcher a visit to get some bits and bobs for tonight's BBQ and some breakfast items. Somehow managed not to buy a ridiculous amount of food and off we drove on a single track road towards Buttermere.

Got a bit lucky with the parking and started our walk around 11:15. Down into the village we walked and towards the lake marvelling at the towering hills all around. Grasmoor serenely towered over Crummock Water not needing a spectacular shape to impress. Whilst Fleetwith Pike sat at the other end of Buttermere Lake as if it was a gatekeeper for anyone who wanted to leave the valley.

Buttermere Lake

We took the steep steps up towards Red Pike which still hid behind the lump that is yet another Dodd (There are quite a few hills with "Dodd" in their name. People must have run out of ideas, this one simply called "Dodd".)

Up through the forest

Eventually, we cleared the forest and zigzagged up through open hill side on a rocky path until it met Sourmilk Gill and led up along it. This must be the coolest name for a stream anywhere in this country!

We had a wee break at Bleaberry Tarn which sits like quite a few others right in the middle of a rocky amphitheatre. This time we were marvelling at the impressive Chapel Crags and our objective number 1 for the day: Red Pike.

 Chapel Crags and Red Pike on the right. 

Having recovered a bit from the steep ascent so far, we tackled the final push up Red Pike on a very steep red scree slope. T his surely must be the most difficult war of climbing this fell. 

Views from the top were absolutely stunning with Grasmoor and Mellbreak to the East and Ennerdale to the South along with countless peaks of which we could only name very few. 

 Grasmoor's massive bulk to the right Mellbreak on the left. 

We didn't longer long, it was sunny but also quite breezy up here.
Next up was the highest peak of the day: High Stile. We walked along the ridgeline with the path sometimes only being half a metre away from certain death, whilst climbing ever higher.
Before we knew it we were at the 807m top. Time for a lunch break. Found a spot somewhat sheltered from the wind, enjoying the  amazing views.

Up next was High Crag. Down and up the rocky path we went, whilst the massive round shape of Great Gable dominated the horizon. 

Great Gable sitting majestically at the end of Ennerdale. Wow!

After a knee crunching descent we went up and over Seat before reaching the saddle between Seat and the now impressive rocky lump of Haystacks.

Haystacks

Haystacks must certainly be one of the big ticket items. Still, I left the decision to carry  on to Rich. Funny enough I really was indifferent. We've had had a cracker of a day so far and it was already 15:45. I'd just as happily sit outside with an ice cream cone than carry on over Haystacks.
He was quite knackered and opted for the way home, to which I happily obliged.

He knew how much I liked ticking off hill tops, but for once I wasn't sad about it. My feet were sore again (Don't walk without socks in knackered trail running shoes like I had the day before.) and sure I could've carried on, but there's no harm in leaving a great hill for another time, when you can really appreciate it.

With tired limbs we made our way down to the lake shore and walked along it back to the village.

Lake Buttermere. 

Arrived just two minutes to five, just about in time to get an ice cream from the cafe. Result.

What a cracker of a day we've had! Although covered in a layer of red dust mixed with dried sweat,  you could tell that even Rich was sporting something resembling a tan. He normally just burns, peels and then turns pasty white again. I was on my way to chocolate brownie by now, without even trying.

Drove back to Keswick to get some last bits for the barbie, filled up the car and ended up downing aforementioned Old Rosie.

Brilliant day!

15k Walk to the Ice Cream Parlour

Wainwrights: Latrigg, Lonscale Fell

Boll.. s!!! I just wrote a nice blog post for about 30 mins and lost it all... It's gone. All that work. Well, here we go again.

Had a good night's sleep not even needing earplugs as the high winds had mostly gone.
Rich had cooked a ginormous pot of tasty chilli and we had watched some Amazon Prime afterwards,  slouching on our new low camping chairs in the porch with the iPad propped up on our new low table.  Perfect!

Had some chocolate and banana pancakes in the morning before we finally moved to Castlerigg Campsite. Now that the back hols were over we had almost free choice of space. 

Pitched and left around 11am for today's walk opting for a loop straight from the campsite, heading for our chosen ice cream parlour in town via a hill or two. 

Again I was in tank top and shorts so far up North whilst Bristol was getting rain and thunderstorms.

Down the road we walked, crossed the river and enjoyed a nice wooded section as we skirted Latrigg's South slope to the West. 

We joined the Cumbria Way for a short section and then headed pretty much straight up to Latrigg's top through a support steep wood and then open hill side. 

Views from the top were absolutely jaw dropping and I had been keen to show Rich one of the numerous viewpoints like this you find around Keswick. That's why I like the area so much. A grand view is never far.

Down we went to the car park, which was only 300m down a great slope.  Most people had come this way today. It was busy but not too crazy.

I normally don't like touristy and popular places like this, but if that means I can get a decent coffee than I quickly shut up. And no, the cafe on Snowdon does not count!!!

Indeed,  there was a coffee van at the car park just when we thought how much money an ice cream van would make here on a day like this. 

We settled for coffees and had a lunch break in the sun. Awesome!

Eventually, we got up again around 2pm to do some more walking. After all we had a date at the ice cream parlour in town, right?

The mighty hunks of Skiddaw and Little Man were looming to the left, the sombre Blencathra range rising to the right. Most people chose either of the two for their next target. We chose Lonscale Fell,  the unassuming fell right in between its famous neighbours. 

Headed East towards Blencathra first,  then went once more very steeply uphill along a fence. What a slog it was. 

We were the only ones far and wide,  hiding and puffing whilst the only other mammals nearby were sheep, which eyed us like no other human being ever walks up here.

Eventually,  we got to the broad ridge at the top with core opening up over the back of Skiddaw and Blencathra which to me always feels like I'm looking at a well kept secret. Some hidden scenery that hardly anyone knows of. 

We walked to the East to of the ridge for a quick breather,  then to the actual top of Lonscale Fell. 

I assumed that there was going to be a good path down to the West to connect the Skiddaw and Blencathra ranges. It just made sense and although not on any of our maps, it was right there. 

We headed down it and eventually joined the broad gravel path that was coming down from Skiddaw. 

After some alone time on Lonscale we joined the more popular route again and walked all the way down into Keswick on the Cumbria Way. 

4:45pm we reached the first houses. Not knowing when our usual ice cream hang out was about to close we stopped at the first one that we passed by and were treated to some amazing Italian gelato!!!

Ciders in the... shade followed,  we'd had enough sun for the day. The food at the Square Orange,  a European style bistro which serves amazing pizzas and even more amazing cocktails. Strawberry Mojito.

We're quite pickled and pretty knackered now. Only a 25min uphill drag before showy and bed. A real Lakeland epic is waiting for us tomorrow!

Walking Warm-up

Wainwrights: Sale Fell, Ling Fell

First day of walking for us today. The night had been very stormy and I was glad for my earplugs, otherwise it would've been a rather sleepless one for me.

Gave Castlerigg Campsite a ring in the morning, but a lot of guests had already extended their stay and realistically we wouldn't know if there was a free space for us before 11:30 or so. 

Decided to stay another night at Dalebottom then and try the next day as many would likely leave at the end of the bank hols.

So instead of packing and moving we cooked breakfast on Rich's ancient gas hob. Did so in the back of the car as it was still very windy. Even then we struggled to keep the flame going at first. 

Venison bangers and scrambled egg with bacon lardons. Proper brekkie that is.

Drove up to the top of Bassenthwaite Lake, then turned left on a minor road and soon parked up outside a church 11-ish.

This part of the Lakes is quite different to where the more famous hills reside. Here it's all low grassy hills, wild flowers and the occasional bit of wood.
Still we enjoyed grand views over to the Skiddaw Range and Grisedale Pike as well as green fields to the West and even the Scottish coast of Galloway.

Up we went on a perfect grassy path skirting Sale Fell's flank at first then heading straight for the top. As we gained height the strong easterly wind hit us, so much so that we could do a proper Moonwalker at the top!

Just a bit of wind up here

Fought our way over the few bumps that make up the top and descended on the South West flank, stopping halfway down for a quick break out of the worst of the wind. It had been a good decision not to aim for any of the higher big ticket items today, despite the blue skies and warming sun.
Indeed, I was walking in shorts and tank top, which I have never been able to do in Britain when the wind was blowing 30-40mph!

Walked steeply down to a wooded section of a minor road then up the other side for objective number 2: Ling Fell.
Again we skirted the slope, gaining height very slowly, but we were out of the worst of the wind.
Brief steep push to the top then down very steeply but aiming straight for the road.
Another short break for lunch with game salami and nuts, then a walk back  to the car on a minor road.

On Ling Fell

It was only 2pm, but we wanted to stop at The Pheasant Inn right by the A66 which had looked like a very nice country pub when we had passed by earlier.

Had a couple of refreshing driver friendly beverages and booked us in for dinner Wednesday night. What a lovely pub! Really liked what we saw on the menu and nice not too posh atmosphere despite the Jags and Maseratis parked outside.

Just sitting here chilling now after a lovely warm-up walk. Somehow I think we should've done one of the grand horseshoe rounds, but with a wind like this it wouldn't have been much fun despite the otherwise pristine conditions.

Going to pop into the Co-op on our way home to buy some booze for tonight and then it's back to the camp site to cook up a nice chilli... probably in the back of the car again,  ha ha.

Back in Keswick!

Well, well I'm on the road again. Been a busy first six months of my 40th year so far with Argentina, Thailand, South Devon and South Wales already ticked off.

Still, with adventures half across the globe, I was still looking forward to going back to the Lake District... very much looking forward to it indeed. And so was Rich.

We had had a great time when going up for half a week of hiking two years back. I had spent another week based in Keswick on my own between then and now and decided that it's a great place from which to explore the Lakes from.

So now I'm here with Rich after a 5.5hr drive up from Bristol. Despite a 7:30am start we still got into a bit of bank holiday traffic. But as the weather improved the further up North we got (Normally it's the other way around.), the more our mood improved as well.

Drove  into the outskirts of Keswick in glorious sunshine having just passed Blencathra, me enthusiastically pointing out Sharp Edge to Rich, who was slightly indifferent as he was driving and, fair enough, he had to concentrate on the road. To me it was like seeing old friends again. Skiddaw, Great Mell Fell, Catbells... I was beaming and keen on introducing Rich to all of them.

Rolled onto Castlerigg Campsite just outside Keswick only to find it full. It had been a risk just turning up, but they didn't take bookings anyway. Told us to come back next morning, as they had a number of guests planning on leaving Sunday.

Phoned around a bit, tried the sister site down the road and got lucky at Dale Down campsite, a 5min drive down the road. Lovely campsite with great views all around and a strong wind going! Checked in for one night and battled with the tent, but got it fairly quickly pitched, because we knew what we were doing, ha.
Just threw the basics inside and helped our neighbours pitch theirs as they were struggling and obviously not very experienced.

Headed into town hopping into a bus halfway down, arriving in a bustling bank holiday Keswick around 3pm. Had some Italian ice cream, checked some pub food menus and settled into one pub's beer garden out back with a couple of pints finally able to chill and get into a holiday mood. 

View of Blencathra from the road to the campsite

Made plans for the next three days. That is: I made the plans based on a couple of weather forecasts and told Rich, what we were going to do, ha ha.

Had another quick mooch around, bought some steak mince for our chilli tomorrow night from a market stall and settled into The Pack Horse pub for early dinner around 5pm.
Turned out we timed it just right, as it got quite busy soon after.
Pub grub was half decent and we left pretty stuffed to get the bus back to the camp site.

Looks like this bug had something to say about the plan

Beer and food. Richie happy.