Goodbye backcountry

As promised we were collected by the German woman at the agreed place and arrived at Kenmare at 9am. Wow. Second time I got a free lift to Kenmare, haha.
Walked around the very nice little town, visited one of the biggest Irish stone circles and had tea at a beautifully decorated tea room.
I took the bus to Killarney at 4pm, browsed through the outdoor outlet shop at the bus station there and then took the bus to Cork to stay two days with a friend before I go home Thursday afternoon.

So thjis was my hiking holiday. Can't say I'm not glad to be done with it. Still if I'd had to go on another week I'd do it. Kind of got into a rhythm there. I learned quite a few things about equipment and hiking in general.
I can only say it's been a great time. I will collect my thoughts and then write a conclusion about the Beara Way, the Kerry Way and hiking in Ireland in general.

Last day waking

Sunday: Caherdaniel - Sneem

As there was no bus going from Caherdaniel we had to walk to Sneem. Hitchhiking did not really work as there was only one car every 20 minutes. Well. Okay.
The walk was nice as the path - the so called Butter Road - was pretty easy. Some going up and down and nice views but nothing compared to the last days. Came along an old church on the way from the 12th century and a 2000+ year old stone ford built by a chieftain. The last 8km were really boring so we kept the pace up and arrived in Sneem.
Asked around for a bus going to Kenmare and only got shaking heads for an answer. There was a German woman who lives here and works in Kenmare who offered us a lift for tomorrow morning as she was going to work then. Perfect. Checked in at the very pleasant Stonehouse B&B. Will go out for food and drinks later.
Tomorrow will walk around Kenmare, then get the bus to Killarney and the connection to Cork from there to stay with a friend for two days.

A day at the beach

Saturday: Waterville - Caherdaniel

Had a nice long chat with our host Peter this morning. And then set off  heading towards Caherdaniel in perfect sunshine with only a few clouds. My knee was severely troubling me with something always snapping back into place with a sharp stinging pain.
Still the path was quite easy with only one minor climb. After that we went along the coast with a most beautiful view. Went down to the beach and had a stroll on Abbey Island before we walked the rest of the way to Caherdaniel and checked in at the nice Traveler's Rest hostel.

Katja 1, Irish Weathergod 0

Friday : Cahersiveen - Waterville

Unfortunately the boats for Skellig Michael didn't go today so I chancelled that and instead went to Waterville a day earlier. This was going to be the longest stage on the Kerry Way.
Refreshed from last day's relaxed cycling I walked the first third on a quiet road and so did a little shortcut cutting the distance from 31km to roughly 27km. Then went along the ridge of three hills on a narrow path. The view in all directions was overwhelming. Luckily I could easily make out the next showers coming in far before they hit me. Ha!
Reached the post office of Mastergeehy right on schedult at 1:30. Cool. Thought the toughest bit was behind me. Now only two lower hills ahead and I would be in Waterville.
How could I be so wrong! The following four (!) hours I was ploughing through deep mud and patches of don't-know-how-deep-and-don't-want-find-out-waterholes. But that would've been to easy. Galeforce winds were trying to blow me away and shove me into the deep mud while I was balancing on slick stones. After three hours I didn't care anymore about the unbelievable view of Lough Courrane and Waterville ahead. I didn't care about my hurting knee and just kept going. Changed now from the state of annoyance into defiance. The next shower came rolling in. With a grim expression on my face I didn't even bother getting my rain on again. I was just sick of it all.
Eventually I decended into Waterville. Completely exhausted I stumbled into the supermarket, got myself some food for later and a cider. F... you Irish Weathergod! It takes a lot more to make me falter, haha.
Checked in at Peter's very cosy hostel and chatted with a German guest and our host until as late as 11:30. His place is really nice and Peter is a funny guy with an endless reservoir of stories that he tell in a very entertaining manner. Highly recommendable.

Sun, sun, sun. Here it comes.

Thursday: Glenbeigh - Cahersiveen

Not much to tell actually of this fabulous day. Heeded the advice of the Climber's Inn landlady not to walk the 30km from Glenbeigh to Cahersiveen but to hitch or take the bus and go to Valentia Island and visit Portmagee.
So I took the bus, checked in at the very pleasant Sive Hostel which lies directly at the N70 and is therefore easy to find. Rented a bike and off I went in perfect sunshine to Valentia Island.  What a day that was. Blue sky and a view from the island that can make you cry for its beauty.
Realized that cycling here is really fun and the Ring of Kerry route is something I may do in the future. Had a coffee and a piece of lemon cake at Portmagee and cycled back.
Waterville tomorrow on another 30km stretch. This time I'll walk.

Heading West

Monday: Black Valley - Glencar

Did my first complete solo stage today. Yesterday was just a warm up. Since the bed at the hostel was way too soft I had slept on the floor next to it on my ground pad, haha. Otherwise I can highly recommend staying there. Everything was renovated last winter so the whole building as well as showers etc looks brand new.
Went west to the end of Black Valley and climbed Bridia Pass. Despite the low hanging clouds and an occasional drizzle the view from the top into the valley was very nice. Just at the bottom is the Stepping Stone B&B which also offers refreshments at the cafe at the back of the house.
Had a big bowl of tea and  a piece of carrot cake as well as a nice chat with the owners. Since my knees were starting to hurt again from the strenuous decent down Bridia Pass I considered staying on the road and skipping the next pass. But the sky was clearinmg with more and more patches of blue and the sun breaking through the clouds. So I thought I'd better take the pass lest I'd regret it later.
Going up the "Lack Road" was quite easy. Unlike up Bridia Pass where I had met my first propper boghole that took my right leg in halfway to the knee the path was clearly visible and not boggy at all.
The sun and the decent made me sweat like hell all geared up for rain and such. Up on the pass the view was awsome again. Caher looming to the right its top hidden in clouds and Skregmor behind him. Going down proved to be more strenuous than going up as I expected. My knees were not so happy about the stony wet path leading down.
Still I made it down, got rid of my rain gear and continued on the now improving path along a river. Went around Lough Acoose in bright sunshine now.  The lake, the near Reeks and the lower mountains in the distance made for a great scenery!
The last 4km on the road eventually ended at today's destination: the Climber's Inn at Glencar. It's a very famous hostel for climbers but I'm a little disappointed about the facilities. It's 25 eur (10 more than the superb hostel at Black Valley) and the shower is a bit run down, the dorm has no hangers and no windows, the kitchen is only moderately equipped and most unusual of all: no wifi!
Glencar seems to be consisting only of a few farm houses and the Climber's which also houses the post office and a shop. I will stay here for two nights anyway since I want to climb Carauntoohill tomorrow.

Fleet Footed

Wednesday: Glencar - Glenbeigh

Pretty easy going today. No mud and only walking on quiet roads and a very nice forest track. Went a bit along the river Caragh which is one of Ireland's cleanest. Then a broad forest road followed. After only two hours I was at the junction where the Kerry Way forks. Going over the Windy Gap south west of Seefin Mountain or going all the way around its  northern slope.
I chose neither, left the Kerry Way and walked the quiet road right next to Lough Caragh.
Best decision possible.  The clouds were hanging so low that even the slightly elevated path around the mountain was covered by mist. I had some beautiful views of the Lough and its surrounding hills.
Got back to the Kerry Way eventually and walked the remained of today's track to the village of Glenbeigh. Would've had nice views of Dingle and Dingle bay but everything was covered in mist.
Checked in at the very recommendable Sleepy Camel hostel. I have a room to myself with a propper bed, the owner is very friendly and the facilities are in oerfect condition. 22.50 Eur is just worth it! Feels more like a B&B. Great!
Walked to Rossbeigh Strand but the constant drizzle that had set in earlier kept me from lingering there long.

Not so much disappointment

Tuesday: Coomloughra Horseshoe?

Headed off to go hillwalking today. Went up the Hydro Road towards Coomloughra Lake which is surrounded by four of the highest mountains of Ireland including the highest: Carauntoohill. He weather was said to be good today. When I reached the entrance of the narrow valley at about 500m the clouds were still hanging very low hiding all the surrounding mountains almost completely. Shit. Went up the western slope of Caher anyway but turned back at the hight of 700m as I couldn't see much.
If I wasn't alone I would've kept on going since the ascent is fairly easy. But in those thick clouds and all by myself I turned back. I'm still too unexperienced and there have been a few deaths recently in these mountains and I didn't want to add to their number.
Instead I went around the north side of the lake and had a short break at its shore. There was a complete silence apart from the rushing of a small river. With those clouds an almost ghostly atmosphere. Went back and descended on the Hydro Road with beautiful views up to Dingle bay and even Dingle. The further I went down, the better the weather got. Looking back the peaks remained hidden.
Streched on a dry patch of grass and had a nap in the sun. Awsome! With only a faint breeze blowing I could've stayed hours. Still I walked slowly home and just when I was down at the road again the sky had cleared and the summits could be seen. Damn. I was just 3 hours too early up there. I considered to go back up but somehow my spirit was defeated when I had decided not to advance to the summit.
So I just enjoyed a long walk in the sun getting my ears burned! In 35 years I had not achieved that yet. Haha. Back at the hostel just relaxed, read some and made dinner.
Even if I did not make it to the top of Caher and Carauntoohill and even Beenkeragh doing the whole horseshoe loop I still had a good day and was really tired when I got back.
The Climber's Inn seems to have the same bunks the hostel at Black Valley has. The mattress is way to soft. So I inflated my ground pad and slept on the floor, haha. I am the only one here luckily.  That must be a sight: me sleeping on the ground in a dorm room with 8 beds.

Relaxed Start

So there I was. All on my own now. Let's see how I will get along and what stories the Kerry Way will bring.

Sunday: Killarney - Black Valley

Walked to Ross Castle to catch my boat at 11. Was there about an hour early and just relaxed on a bench. I know a good part of the first stage of the Kerry Way already, so I was looking forward to another perspective from the boat.
I can only say it was definitely worth it! Small motorboat, nice driver and stunning views. Wasn't easy to capture the scenery onto photographs.
Arrived 90mins later at Lord Brandon's Cottage in Black Valley. After a short walk of another 30mins I checked in at the youth hostel and went for a walk to and through the Gap of Dunloe. Again quite stunning.
Back at the hostel I will relax tonight as tomorrow I will be walking a propper hiking distance again to Glencar. The Black Valley hostel is very recommendable. As clean as you can imagine and quite spacious. Weather is also going to improve with less showers and more sun. Yeah!