This path looks nice. Let's take it.

Due to lack of alternatives we went up Cerna Hora on the bubble lift and just chose the first path that we came across where ever it would lead us to. The wind had blown most of the snow off the tree branches only leaving a thin white layer turning the otherwise dark trees grey. It felt like the whole world had changed into a black and white movie. Weird but strangely beautiful.

We kept on going as we liked turning left or right at crossings going more down than up. On those thin skis with our lack of skill it wasn't easy but fun anyway.

Ended up on the hill opposite of Cerna Hora at the Svornost mountain hut and took a wide turn down again to Cerny Dul.
Again the day had started with us not really knowing what to do and again we found a pretty cool route around the area and had a lot of fun. Must have been like 20km after all.




Of course we stopped by our favourite restaurant again for some food and I simply had the best medallion of venison with burgundy sauce EVER!!! The cook has some talent for sure!!! A dark beer and a palacinky for desert and I was more than happy.

Last day tomorrow so I guess we'll just do the same. Start off somewhere and see where we end up, hehe.

Where is Sněžka?

After a long study of the map only finding probably tough trails we decided to try one we've passed by on our first venture up Cerna Hora. We started off at the same parking lot and walked for like 20 mins before taking a fork to the left.

The trail was way to icy to put on skis so we kept walking. The sun broke through the high clouds time and again and the path was lined with high conifers. Beautiful!
As we gained height and snow crept onto the tree's hitherto green branches also the quality of the trail increased. So we put on skis and followed its direction for a long while marvelling at the fantastic scenery. Best trail of our holiday so far!!!

The path wound its way from the south side over the west side to the north side of the mountain going ever up. So we figured we should see Sněžka (Snow Mountain) soon. And after another bend we could see its easily distinguishable top looming in the distance.

Turning right we kept going all the way up to the top of Cerna Hora enjoying every bit of it.

Had a break and some sausages and a beer at a mountain hut before going down again on the bubble lift.

Today I really fought with my rental skis. I just think they're crap. The going is really hard even on good ground. It can't be just my insufficient skill, haha. Well, I'll keep going for the remaining two days and get myself some decent equipment during the summer and a course next winter when we go skiing again.

Špindlerův Mlýn

After studying the map for like 30 mins looking for nice ski trials and only finding ones that are very steep we decided to go to Špindlerův Mlýn (Spindlermuehle) instead and have a nice walk there.
Took us only 40 minutes to get there by car. Basically, the village consists of restaurants, shops and hotels, the streets teaming with people of all ages. We quickly left the bustle and just followed our noses.
Ended up on a broad path going ever up and after crossing two pistes we were utterly alone. Awesome! As we gained height we soon reached the low hanging clouds which clung to the mountainside immerging the whole scenery into a magical atmosphere.

As we kept going we started to hear voices and soon the first people on skis came down the tree covered steep mountain slope to our left. Time and again we saw them winding their way down the thicket to our path. Seems to be a special sport here, haha.

When our feet broke through the snow's surface more often than not, we just turned around and walked back to the village. Had a look around and then took the car back home.
Stopped in Vrchlabi for some food and another stroll around as the sun was setting. The main road was lined with pretty houses and some nice pottery shops all closed by now for New Year's Eve.

Back home now hoping the fireworks tonight won't disturb my sleep, haha.

Having a look around

Went up Cerna Hora again today, only with the bubble lift this time although that meant queueing for 45 minutes. Explored some of the trails up on and around the top. Pretty nice I may say there are a lot of trails but to us it was not quite clear were they'd lead to. The were some maps at crossings but I kinda missed the "you are here"-marker. So we had to trust our own built in navigation - common sense that is, haha.

It also resulted in us not daring to go down a few ski-trails fearing to end up somewhere completely else with only two options: going all the way up again or taking a path aaaaaall the way around at the base of the mountain.
I would've done it adventurous as I am, but with my dad not being in shape at all it was too risky. Fine by me.

We went down again after like 2,5h of skiing. Doesn't sound much, but we're still beginners. That means spending too much energy on nothing just by not doing it right, y'know? I burned 1500 calories in that short period of time. Not bad, eh?

So we took the car to Svoboda the neighbouring village to go for a walk. Ended up buying some groceries at a small store. They seem to have "Spätis" here as it is Sunday and we didn't quite expect anything but restaurants to be open. As it was too early to go home yet, we explored some more by car going to the ski area called Pec. The main road is lined with hotels and restaurants and it's a lot busier.

Svoboda

Turned the car around as the valley - surrounded by mountains at least 1000m high - ended here and went back home. Had food at "our" restaurant which was fabulous again.

It's not yet decided what we're going to do tomorrow. Decent snow can only be found at like 800m so we need to go up somewhere. Maybe we go to Pec tomorrow and look for some ski trails there.

This area seems to be quite nice if you've been here a couple of times and know your way around. You really have to know where to go cross country skiing. Why is there no map of the area showing all of the trails? Well, maybe we're just lazy Germans who are used to having everything given to us on a plate, hahaha.

A Czech Munro

Today was supposed to be the first day of skiing so I went to the rental and got myself shoes and cross country skis. It's a weird feeling not understanding a word anywhere. I go to the British Isles at least twice a year and feel so at ease there since I understand everything. But here every sign is in Czech and the people speak only a few words German or English - a lot of them not even that.
Still we're getting along anyway. I have to be better prepared next time and learn a few phrases of Czech. Looked up the word for "Thank you" and keep forgetting it time and again, hahaha.

Anyway, as it was simply crazy at the center of our "Ski Resort" with the rental and the lifts etc. we decided to drive the car up to another parking area and go from there. To tell a long story short: We walked up to the top of Cerna Hora which is at 1299m and therefore in my terms a Czech Munro, hehe.
Started off at 700m on a broad path so in no way comparable to what I'm used to.

We simply didn't go on our skis as it was nevertheless quite steep and the snow a bit icy. We put on the skis for a short while but the going was too strenuous and after slipping for the hundredth time we just walked up.
On the top the view was beautiful to say the least. With the blue sky and clouds or mist down in the valleys I could've been looking down for hours marvelling at the scenery.

Yet we tried some of the ski trails up there. It's been ages since I stood on skis but it took only a short time to get a decent flow into my movements. Still I don't think the classic style is mine. Just decided to get myself a pair of skating skis at the coming winter sale.

The steep climb took its toll as my dad was tiring more and more soon after midday so we went down the slope back to the car and off to our home to change before we went out for food.
Basically hit the second restaurant we came across although it looked more like a cafe. But the menu sounded promising. Got myself a beer and simply the BEST rump-steak I ever had!!! Some green beens with A LOT of garlic on the side and afterwards a very decent cappuccino. Jackpot! My dad was licking his fingers as well so no question where we'll head to tomorrow afternoon, hehe.

As it is only 6pm I'm going to play some guitar again and my dad will take out his sketchbook and draw. This is such a great and relaxing vacation! Having fun in the snow during the day and sitting at home when the sun is gone, the belly filled with a good meal, plucking the strings of my guitar. Good times!

A time-travel

Started off very early this morning to drive to Janske Lazne, Czech Republic, with my dad for a week of cross country skiing. As western Europe feels more like spring at the moment we were not sure if we were going to have snow.
Right after the German - Polish border the broad and smooth highway turned into a broad but very bumpy highway with roadsigns changing from 80 to 60 to 50 to 70 by the minute. Memories stole into my mind of a certain road trip with my girls years back to the fabled "Castle Party" taking place at Bolkow. I actually passed the very place! Now as then Jelenia Gora seems to be the Rome of Poland as every crossroad had a sign pointing to it.
Eventually we neared the Czech border going up, up, up gaining height and snow until the road became slippery as hell. Crossed the pass/border at 1600m and then went down again to our destiny Janske Lazne.

The village itself is quiet and small, our accommodation simple but clean. Had a long stroll along the main road to check things out. Found two ski rentals where I'll get my equipment tomorrow. Still the whole system here is not clear to us yet. How does the bus connection work? How much does it cost? There seems to be no map of the cross country loipes at all. Guess I'll ask at the rental tomorrow.

Being here feels like a travel back through time to my youth growing up in the "Dark East". There is basically nothing here but a few restaurants with furniture from like the 1970s and the architecture is a mixture of a few old 18th century buildings resisting to fall to pieces, the ones who gave up resisting a long time ago and in between more or less run down plain buildings from the later 20th century.

Anyway, sitting in our room now relaxing. Have my guitar with me so I'll pluck the strings now and hope my dad won't mind, hehe.

With 2013 looming ahead...

... I'm in the middle of optiminzing my gear for long distance hiking. And that seems to be going on forever since I discover new stuff every day. Just came across another manufacturer of great ultralight backpacks. If you ever need one check out Gossamer Gear. I'll probably get myself the Mariposa if I find a shop in Europe who sells it. With a weight of only 750g you can pack almost 70 litres. Wow!

Right now my backpack incl equipment weighs 8.5 kg without food which I consider pretty good. Still I wanna try to cut it down to < 8kg somehow.

My first long distance trail ever will be the Kerry Way in Ireland next April. Can't wait to start, hehe. Since I'll have 21 days to spend on the island and the Kerry Way only takes about 9 days I have plenty of time to venture through southwest Ireland on my own. So I thought about doing the Beara Way then or spend some time in the McGillycuddy Reeks bagging the Irish munros. Well, I'd say it depends on the weather then.

I will hopefully do two of the group hikes again in Scotland. Glen Affric/Loch Ness and Assynt. My plan is to connect one of these with a solo munro baggin tour at the Cairngorms National Park.

I also plan on doing a cruise on the Nile in early December next year and then spend another week chilling and diving at the Red Sea just to do something completely different, but I'll only be going if it's safe down there.

Anyway, lots of things coming up. Right now I'm just looking forward to a week of cross country skiing in Czech Republic.

Happy New Year everybody!