How Many "R's" Are in Kerrera Ferry?

As the hill forecast was still too bad our guide picked a walk on the island Kerrera instead which was in the end a wonderful choice! Only one short shower and a mix of (a lot of) sun and clouds.

The small ferry operates just south of Oban. In two batches we were shipped over and started our walk along the coast to Gylen Castle - a McDougall ruin. I've got a bit of luck when it comes to islands thinking of my travels to Valentia Island, Dursey Island and recently Skye.

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The ruin of castle Gylen

Saw some amazing basalt formations which looked like man made walls and some more conglomerate and rock that was lifted after the ice age. We actually learned how and why this happened. Quite interesting. I scrambled up one or two of these. Couldn't resist.

How could I resist scrambling up here, huh?

Pressed rock elevated after the ice age

Had a nice pick nick in the sun around 1pm and after 13 kilometres we were back at the ferry and spent the better part of an hour in Oban at a hotel pub with a pint. Only two or three of us could be bothered to walk around the town, haha.

In the evening the owner of the house and estate came over for a very interesting chat about the house and it's history as well as the estate's history and what actually belongs to it. Turned out it's 6000 acres large spread over a thin strip along Loch Etive. The farm with it's highland cattle belongs to it as well as the mussels farm and a few more bits. Learned about breeding highland cattle and growing mussels which was a nice topic just before dinner.
Enjoyed the food again although there wasn't much for me in it as it was based around potatoes and pasta. Ate everything else and was stuffed by the end. Nice. Had a wee dram afterwards and went to bed quite early again around 5am.

Nursing the Old Bones

I indeed felt a few muscles in the morning after my long hike the day before. Ouch. Also my knees were a bit knackered as well, felt a bit awkward crouching down, but still ok. So I wasn't too unhappy for an easy half-day walk and some "spare time" in the afternoon. Just a bit of stretching so to speak.

Set off straight from the house at 10:30am through the extensive wild garden at first and then over the A85 onto a rarely trodden but broad gravel path through a mix of trees, bushes and rolling pasture. Climbed a little knoll for some nice views around all the way to Mull in the distance and Ben Cruachan in the North West which was mostly hidden in low clouds. 

Just after a short break some rain washed over us, coming back every now and then so we kept water proofs on. Saw some highland kettle with their newly born calves and walked along the coast back to the house enjoying a bit of sunshine.

Had our "pick nick" at the house lazing about in the spacious living room. Then everyone was free to venture the garden or just relax. I couldn't wait to set up the snooker table and get playing. So I did with one of the other guests. We managed two games in like 90 minutes. Gosh, this is hard. I thought it would be easier if you're playing pool sometimes, but nothing really works. Even potentially easy shots got wrong most of the time. We made most of our points with fouls, hahaha.

Evening dinner was nice again. There were two big legs of lamb and I made sure there was nothing left of it, getting myself about 5 helpings. Yeah. Was pretty tired though and went to bed just before 10pm falling asleep straight away.

The West Highland Motorway

After my recent shorter adventures I was very much looking forward to another week with one of the wandern-schottland.de groups. However, this time I was not only going as customer enjoying the scenery being led around and just relax. No, this is the chance of getting more insight into leading groups and leading those trips, as I am one of the potential future guides. Let's see how much experience I can gain and if I still want to do this sometime. (I have no doubt I do, haha)

The group was being picked up Saturday night at EDI airport but since I had a flight Friday night to Glasgow I decided to climb a munro around Loch Tay and jump on our minibus somewhere on the way to the house.
There's not much that can keep me from climbing a hill. However, 50mph gales, hail showers and fresh snow abover 600m can. So I changed my plans last minute and instead of giving Ben Chabhair from Inveranan a go I walked the West Highland Way from there to Tyndrum instead.
The day had started quite sunny with thick clouds here and there. Of course another shower hit, when I just jumped of the Citylink bus. I used a bit of protection from the elements at the famous Drovers Inn, set my map and got into my waterproofs.
A couple of years ago I had done a day walk from Loch Lomond to this exact spot, so keeping on from here was nice. The campsite near the WHW was busy and quite a few people set off. At first the path was a broad gravel road. More like a bridleway along the valley. The nearby A82 and the big pillars of a power line didn't really help the feeling of remoteness. Add numerous walkers in their bright clothes to that.
I enjoyed it a bit, but even the (off-season) Kerry Way was much more lonely. I loved the walking itself and realized once again how much I miss going on another long distance trail. It's definitely not going to be the WHW though.

On the WHW out of Inveranan

Looking back just before Crianlarich

Decided to take the Crianlarich link path and had a nice break in the tea room at the train station, dodging another one of the heavy showers. So far my new hiking trousers had stood their ground, only getting a bit moist but drying quickly when the sun was back. As I made my way up to the WHW again I donned my waterproofs as shower were getting more frequent.
Enjoyed the path from Crianlarich to Tyndrum much more. At first it led through a coniferous forest and the smell of dripping trees and the soaked earth was amazing.

A gap in the woodland

Just as I stepped out of the forest onto a larger farm another hail shower hit... of course. Even the sheep huddled together and looked miserable. I whistled a tune and kept on going. My shoulders and hips started hurting a bit now from the heavy load on my back. I had packed a bit more than normal since I was staying in a nice house, so I really laboured hard. Thinking of Denali my backpack had the weight mountaineers carry up there. Phew. Though. Plus they pull a 25kg sleigh. Hm.

Walking towards Tyndrum

Eventually, arrived in Tyndrum around 3:30pm with knackered shoulders and knees. Bloody hell. The last bit was a fight to be sure. Had a Scotch Broth at the Green Welly, did some shopping for gas and eggs and then spend 2 hours in the local watering hole waiting for my pick up.

15 miles 2400ft of ascent, 22kilos on my back. Ouch

Stepping onto the minibus I found some friendly face from previous trips which was a very pleasant surprise. The house is a large proud manor house with an extensive garden, lovely rooms and interior and best of all: A snooker table!!!! With proper queues even. Ha!!!! If you're looking for me you know where to find me. Whoop whoop!
Dinner was awesome as expected and when everyone introduced themselves I thought "This is going to be fun!". Really lovely people and we all started chatting freely straight away. No awkward silences. Ah, this is going to be cool! Despite a disappointing weather forecast for the week, I'm sure we're going to have a lot of fun!

North Wales Day 3 - Eastern Carneddau Circuit

As the rain stopped some time during the night, I sat pondering over the map again next morning, enjoying the rest of my power hiker breakfast - minced meat and peas. Yum! Moel Siabod wasn't on my map, so I ruled that one out. Clouds were thick but higher up today so the summits were mostly free. Looking out the window I spotted a bit of blue even over the Carneddau while the Glydderau was dark and grey. Carneddau it was then! Time to settle an outstanding score. Last year I had planned to go all the way to Rowen taking in four peaks but the weather had been too bad. Now I was going to get three of them and turn back to my starting point in a circle.

Perfect breakfast

Parked the car a bit further towards the end of Llyn Ogwen on one of the many car parks around 9:30 and headed over to Pen yr Ole Wen's East face. Already many people were heading up Tryfan. Well, that's one for next time for sure!
Climbed a steep path North next to Afon Lloer and just before Cwm Lloer veered West up Penny's flank. Loved the short and easy scramble over dry and grippy rock a lot, enjoying every bit of it. Reached the broad top not long after utterly happy to have finally made it, after staring at it so many times, dreaming of climbing to the very top itself.

Scrambling ahead

The best part!

Done and happy

Views over the Glydderau were amazing and the path to Carnedd Dafydd could be clearly seen ahead. Didn't linger too long and around 11:30 I reached the same top I had fought my way up to from Bethesda the day before. Took a victory photo this time and made my peace with it.

The path ahead to Carnedd Dafydd

Made my peace with it

Nice view from the top today

With a big grin I walked along the impressive ridge of Ysgolion Du (Black Ladders) over to Carnedd Lewelyn which took much longer than expected but was very enjoyable with lovely views all around. Welsh 3000 no 6 was bagged at 12:30 and I allowed myself a short lunch break having made good time so far. The wind was strong up here and despite a bit of shelter I scrambled down to Bwlch Eryl Farchog, scrambling over the airy ridge for the last scramble of the day up Pen yr Helgi Du. Quite a different one but equally enjoyable with many possible routes to the top.

Bwlch Eryl Farchog and Pen yr Helgi Du

Heading back

Then it was just walking down the long grassy slope back to the A5 and the car. The wind was weak down in the valley compared to up on the ridge and the sun warmed me quite a bit. Still, I felt knackerd after 5 hours of walking with lots of hands on bits (My guide book had suggested 6-7 hours).

It was a fantastic day out and totally made up for the two days before. It was great to see the Carneddau in its full splendor with good views around although I have to admit I prefer the sharper rocks and spikes of the Glydderau.
My knees where quite knackered too from all the walking and scramlbing down in between, but I had a 5 hour drive ahead of me now. Took a short break in Betwys-y-Coed for some food and coffee admiring the numerous motorbikes about.

My short trip back to North Wales was worth it in the end and I could tick off a few things I had left last time. Didn't practice as much navigation as I wanted to because I was either too soaked to bother or enjoying the fantastic views all around. On the plus side, I could gain some more scrambling experience, deliberately taking the time to pick out a route instead of happy but headless scrambling up, haha. Took some bearings in the mist as well and working out my position with angle and height (my watch has an altimeter) alone. Monday was good for aligning the map to features around and naming hills and valleys.

Next up is a week in Scotland mid May, which is less than two weeks now.  To say I'm very much looking forward to it, would be an understatement.

North Wales Day 2 - I'm Scrambling in the Rain

The fellow Mountain Leader trainee I wanted to spend the day with had bailed out, so I was on my own again. For once the forecast had been true. There was a bit of sun and the clouds were generally higher up. Even the rain had stopped and the winds were less strong. That constant noise of the wind speeding through the valley had ceased. It had felt like sleeping next to a motorway in rush hour the night before. Sometime during this night I had realized that I heard only the rain dropping onto my sturdy tent. The mountains had stopped singing their war song.
It's weird how we percieve the hills or mountains almost as people. But sometimes it seems they have a temper even a soul of their own. Maybe that's why I am so intrigued by them. It's almost like they speak to me. Like giant animals I try to read them, figure out if they will let me mount them or if they buckle when I try.
I have the highest respect and admire their raw beauty. I am such a tiny short-lived being compared to those huge aeons-old beasts.
I can hardly take my eyes off them and if I could, I would just sit down and stare at them for hours. I have to know all the names of the hills or mountains I can see when I'm walking somewhere and I'll stare at the map until I've got it all figured out. It's like knowing all the names of people around you when you're in a training course or something. And finally.... that sweet cramp in my stomach when I see a hill or mountain. The one that gets your pulse racing and puts a stupid smile on your face. I'm in love. As simple as that.
I want to be close to the hills when they let me and leave them alone when they're upset. Yesterday they had been upset and seeing the mountain rescue in action justified my decision not to force myself onto them.

Sunday, I decided to drive the very scenic road to Bethesda again and give Carnedd Dafydd a go and maybe head over to Carnedd Llewelyn depending on circumstances.

As so often actually getting out of town into open country proved a bit difficult, but eventually I made it and was heading ever up just after 11am after passing some sheep farm and relocating after realizing that I was following the wrong river. Infact, I hadn't even realized there were two streams. Duh.
Practiced some aligning of contour features to the map and naming what I saw around me. The sun was out and I was walking up in my baselayers. Ha! It was almost like shopping in your pyjamas. I zipped off the lower part of my hiking trousers and really liked the combination of my icebreaker leggings and the now shorts. Warm and freedom for my legs. Cool!

I could see the top of Carnedd Dafydd clearly ahead and only now and then some clouds passed it low enough to actually hide it. What a fine day so far, but I knew it was going to change soon, so I made good speed.
Reaching the first outcrop of the Carneddau named Mynydd Du the views got ever better. The drop to my left got steeper and steeper and soon was I walking along the ridge passing another two rocky humps before the actual ascent of Carnedd Dafydd started for real.
The views of the cwm below were lovely with Afon Llafar winding it's way down towards Bethesda. Ahead I saw the rocky slope of today's peak with patches of snow strewn over it.

Looking back down to Bethesda

The top of Carnedd Dafydd before clouds swallowed it

I lost the faint path pretty soon but navigating wasn't too difficult since I just needed to go up. This way I tried to find the best and easiest way over large boulder fields that required more scrambling than I had expected. The clouds dropping down now and the wetness from the last few days added an extra level of difficulty. I certainly scrambled over more rock than needed but with the view getting worse it was hard to see far enough ahead for an easier route.
About 20 metres below the summit, a hail shower washed over me just as I was passing a patch of snow. I slipped into my waterproofs and fought my way to the top. Didn't even bother to take a picture since there was nothing to see anyway.

Snow!!!

With the now difficult scramble back down in mind I decided not to head over to Carnedd Llewelyn and started my decent. It wasn't as bad as I had pictured it. I carefully chose my route down and before I knew it I had left the scrambling area. I checked my GPS just to make sure I wasn't getting too close to the ridge on my right.

Scrambling down

The walk back down was nice although I couldn't see much until I was over the first hump Mynydd Du again. Some slight showers washed over me every now and then but I didn't care much.

There and back again

Back in Bethesda around 4pm I went for coffee and found the Fitzgerald's Cafe - a classic motorbike themed cafe. How cool was that!!! They had a Triton in the window and a 60s Triumph Bonnie and lots of old photographs on the walls. I got a gluten-free chocolate cake and a coffee and was totally happy.

Ahhh... a Triton!

Shower, cider and food back at the hostel, then spent the rest of the evening reading in the common room. Monday is said to be the best day with a pleasant mix of sun and clouds and only short showers if at all. I may give the Tryfan north ridge a go. Or Pen yr Ole Wen and Carnedd Llewelyn... or Moel Siabod on the way back home. So many choices.

North Wales Day 1 - Maybe not Bristly Ridge Then

The two forecasts I had (MET Office and MWIS) agreed at least on Saturday starting off okay-ish and getting bad in the afternoon with hill fog as low as 200m, showers and gusts of 50-60mph. So my plan was to get up at 5:30am, get up Tryfan before 11am and spend a lazy afternoon somewhere. I also had a couple of plan Bs around Bethesda for lower hills or some micro nav practice if all else failed.
Well... all else failed and I ended up with plan C. Rain and heavy winds had started during the night and not - as promised - ceased by morning. So I had a bit of a lay in and headed over to Bethesda just after 9am. Still no view of any of the surrounding hills, a very persistent rain coupled with heavy gusts. Boo.
Went for a coffee first and even the Welsh weren't too intent on giving this Saturday a go, as only a single cafe was open for business. Made good use of the regained mobile data reception texting my boyfriend and browsing the net. I was in no hurry.

Gave any kind of hillwalk a pass as I was getting soaked already. I should've re-proofed my gear before I went. ARG! Plan C was now to do the short walk to Aber Falls near Bangor and maybe have a look if any of the surrounding hills was accessible.
Aber Falls is said to be really beautiful and the walk into the valley at which end the waterfall is to be found felt more like a nice park. Reminded me of the Killarney national park. I could imagine that on a good day the gravel path would be swarming with people. I was pretty much the only one swarming today while the wind was beating rain at 60mph into my face trying to push me over in the process. Not today mate.

I pondered climbing one of the low visible hill tops nearby but then didn't give in to the urge as I was now soaked to the bone and getting a bit cold. In the brief moment the clouds allowed a short glimpse of higher ground behind the first line of hills, I actually saw snow on the slopes. Snow... in May! Phew!

The waterfall was a waterfall and I hurried back to the car. Decided to drive the short distance to Conwy and have lunch and hopefully dry in one of the pubs. Ended up in The Bell, which I had no time to go to last year and really liked it. They had half a Thatchers Heritage for me (I am a picky West Country girl when it comes to cider) and I greatly enjoyed listening to the Delta Blues streaming out of the pub's speakers while I read through the last Trail magazine. Good times, eh?

Stopped by Mountain Warehouse on the way back to the car. My jacket was still completely soaked not having dried much and fate was kind to me. They had a waterproof jacket half price. Turquoise won over pink when choosing the lesser of two evils regarding the colour and got myself a half price pair of merino socks as well. Job done.

The new jacket was a winner straight away as I now felt warm and dry, the new socks were put on back at the car and are already my favourite. Ha! How's that for a shitty day.
Stopped nearby Bangor to have a look at Penrhyn Castle, which I had missed on last year's visit to the area, but £11 was a bit much to pay for a quick look at it so I turned around and drove back.
Another quick glimpse at higher hills just after Bethesda revealed more snow and as I took the last bend into Ogwen Valley I saw a helicpoter hovering on the flank of Pen yr Ole Wen. Shit! Two Mountain Rescue trucks and a police car were parked nearby. The pilot however must be a real ace steering the copter in such difficult conditions. The heavy winds and rain hadn't ceased even a wee bit. Hope the person they got off the mountain will fully recover!
Chilled in the warm common room while the wind kept on howling outside. Forecast promised better conditions from Sunday mid day on, so I planned another lay in and some route planning for the next morning.

Back in North Wales

I love bank holiday weekends and plan mine months ahead. Just can't stay home, but have to seize those rare opportunities of more than two days off to be active outdoors.
So it came that instead of spending three days camping in Exmoor with my boyfriend and a few other people I drove all the way up to North Wales for some Quality Mountain Days.
Left work in Newport at 2pm but an incredible amount of slow drivers and a bit of Friday rush hour kept me an hour longer than intended. A coffee break halfway there helped cooling my temper and I started enjoying the beautiful sunshine and rolling green hills around.
Hills rose just after Wrexham and I got a fantastic view onto Moel Siabod between Betwys and Capel Curig. Stunning! Approaching 7pm I finally entered Ogwen Valley with mighty Tryfan looming on the left, Pen-yr-ole Wen on the right and Glyder Fach ahead. Breathtaking!
It's really funny, but I can walk along the most beautiful coasts, through nature reserves or AONBs, but when I see proper British hills, my heart rejoices, a broad grin creeps onto my face and I just feel like coming home after a very long time. This is where I belong. Period.
I parked at the YHA Idwal, checked in and chatted with the lovely woman at reception who even remembered me from last year! Pitched my tent outside and spent the rest of the night brooding over the map and weather forecast which was not promising at all.