Misty Mountains - Part 2 (Days 3 & 4)

Day 3 + 4

Saturday 27/06/2015
Langdale - Jack's Rake - Angle Tarn - Scafell Pike - wild camp - Angle Tarn - Langdale
14.3 miles
4600 ft ascent/descent

Kudos to Paul. Despite being quite hungover, he started with us around 9am and having come up with the route for the next two days he was supposed to be kind of a leader, haha.
The weather was really nice but it didn't take much to improve compared to the last two days anyway. For once it was dry and even the sun peeked through gaps in the clouds.

Paul asked me to memorize the first bit of the route from the map and then lead us there. That's how people are tested. Caught me a bit off-guard, but I realized I normally do this anyway picking prominent features like lakes, streams, junctions, outcrops etc. to guide me without constantly glancing at the map.
So I led us East and then behind the Sticklebarn pub very steeply up to Stickle Tarn. I find it quite interesting that different areas have different names for the same thing. So little lakes are "tarn" in the Lake District "lochan" in Scotland and "llyn" in Wales. The big ones are "water", "loch" and again "llyn". I think. Then there are "bealachs", "cols" and "bwlchs", "cwms" and "corries". Ahhhhhh.

Anyway, we had a short break on Stickle Tarn eyes fixed on the big rock face behind it where the grade 1 scramble of Jack's Rake could be seen as a diagonal slightly lighter line. Yeah! That looked like fun. We walked around the tarn and started scrambling. I was happily leading the way eager to get my hands on the rock. It was mostly dry and quite grippy, the views stunning and scrambling with our big backpacks required some extra care.
There were a few small plateaus where we had some small breaks enjoying the view. One greeted us with a half rotten dead sheep though. Ewwww.

A view, a view!!!

Stickle Tarn and the scramble just behind it

Up, up, up

Had a quick bite at the top and a look at the map. Took a bearing to a path leading down to a path junction and then freelanced over open ground. We didn't quite hit it, but took another path to the intended junction and walked over a small hill to Angle Tarn which we had passed by yesterday.

Next up on the list was Scafell Pike. The highest mountain of England. We couldn't leave the area without having made it to the top, right? We could see clouds coming in from the West but so far the weather was kind to us.

Had lunch break just after 1pm at a big junction with a shelter. The wind had picked up again as soon as we had reached higher ground. The place was almost swarming with people coming in from all directions. No surprise on such a fine Saturday. We headed further up, passed Great End and made our way over very rocky ground to the top of England.
I had half a mind of quickly bagging Great End whilst we where there, but was glad I didn't suggest it. Five minutes after reaching Scafell Pike, clouds swept in and obscured any kind of view. Awwww, man! We agreed on wild camping between Styhead Tarn and Sprinkling Tarn and took a path called "Corridor Route" down through the dense cloud. Being tired and weary we were just too lazy to poke around in the mist with map and compass and used the GPS instead to get us on track and onto the right one of a few paths leading down from the summit.

Top of Scafell Pike ahead

Great Gable... truely great

On Scafell Pike

Around 5pm we finally reached the wild camp spot. The wind was still an issue blowing annoying gusts here and there. At least we had stayed dry so far. The spot was actually quite lovely. A bit away from the path, stream nearby and nice level ground.
Spray rain set in as we pitched and I soon retired to my tent while the others were cooking in theirs. Read a bit while my tent was shaking violently in the gusts time and again, but could only sink into a deeper slumber around midnight when constant heavy rain somewhat drowned the noise of the wind.

wild camping is cool

Sunday was as wet as forecasted. Boo. We left as early as 6am and hurried through the rain back to Langdale as fast as we could. After an hour I was pretty much soaked again. But at least I was still more or less warm. Just two and a half hours after setting out, we arrived at the campsite. By then soaked to the bone again. I upended my boots to pour the water out. My hands were so stiff from the cold wind and rain, I could hardly undo the laces. Grabbed dry clothes from the car and fled into the shower block for another very long and very hot one.

All of us just wanted to get going so we said our goodbyes and made our ways home.


Even though the weather was shite, I greatly enjoyed my trip! Met two very nice people and gained a lot of valuable experience in navigating when you can't see at all. I learned how cold you can get when you're wet and it's windy and I have my first two proper wild camps on the list. Can't say I wouldn't have liked some sunshine and seeing a bit more, but it was definitely an intense experience.
Still, I saw enough to realize the beauty of the Lake District. And although the landscape is unmistakably British, it has its own character and I will be back to hopefully see much more of it.

Misty Mountains - Part 1 (Days 1 & 2)

Lakes, here I come!!! I left work as early as 1pm on Wednesday to drive up to the National Trust campsite in Langdale and to meet up with Mandy - another Mountain Leader trainee - who would be my hiking companion for the next four days. A 4.5 hr drive turned into a 6 hr one as an accident on the M6 held me long enough to get into proper afternoon traffic around Manchester.

Parked the car at the campsite and decided not to pitch my tent as I just couldn't be bothered. Instead I would finally sleep in the boot. I had deliberately bought that car to fit me stretched out in the back and no one would ever guess someone's in there with the windows tinted and all. Ha. Turned out to be really comfy, quiet and dry. Great!

My metal tent

Went to the nearest pub to meet up with Mandy. Had a pint or two and a chat and liked her straight away. She had planned the route for the next two days and despite a rather bad weather forecast I was eager to get going.

Day 1

Thursday 25/06/2015
Langdale - Wetherlam - Great Knott wild camp
10.5 miles
5000 ft ascent, 2789 ft descent

We set off at 8:30 am next morning, payed for our cars to stay at the site and left via a public footpath straight from the campsite leading steeply up to a pass. Clouds were very low, but despite high humidity no rain yet.
Passed by Blea Tarn and a few trees before we kind of freelanced over a grassy knoll towards the foot of Wetherlam. With the limited view we had some good practice of map and compass use, taking bearings and making note of ground features such as stone walls or streams. Still, we already had to relocate once, when we missed a fork in the path.

Blea Tarn

Handrailing we found the junction where a path up to the ridge of Wetherlam was supposed to start. We could only faintly see it and lost it time and again, navigating on general direction and altitude alone due to lack of features.
We donned waterproofs when we reached the cloud base halfway up to the ridge and spent the rest of the day alternating between light and heavy rain with a few breaks here and there. Up on the ridge there were at least some cairns to lead the way and after a few easy scrambles we reached the top of our first proper hill. Needless to say, there was no view whatsoever.

Scrambling up Wetherlam

Top of Wetherlam

Headed down to the main road, crossed it and walked over to Red Tarn. We had made good time so far with pretty much no pause and despite nearing a state of being completely soaked, we decided to head up to Great Knott. It was only 4pm and the wind had picked up as well, so instead of wild camping near Red Tarn we hoped to find a sheltered spot further up between the rocks.

We trudged on and I was getting cold in my soggy clothes with the constant wind. Up in the clouds again the view was pretty much zero. Now find a wild camp spot. It had to be fairly level, not too wet, big enough for two tents and definitely out of that biting wind. Try that while you're constantly looking through steamed glass. Not cool.
I could barely make out some rocks just after passing Great Knott and went to explore. No good. Too small and too close to the precipice. The next one was just about good enough. Mandy approved and we doubted we'd find a better spot wandering around in the mist.
It just about ticked all the boxes and was somewhat out of the wind. A short break in the rain made pitching a bit easier. I wouldn't say "pleasant" though.

In the tent I completely stripped since I was literally soaked to the bone and was glad for the dry and warm merino baselayers I had brought. Even my said-to-be waterproof socks were moist inside. I put them into the sleeping bag with me and they were dry and warm next morning
Still, it took some hours until I felt really warm again. Had some cold food and read a bit before I fell asleep around 9pm. Gusts of wind died down and although my whole tent was shaking violently in them, I was sure it would prevail.
Unfortunately, the gusts became a permanent blowing around midnight and thus kept me awake for most of the night.

Day 2

Friday 27/06/2015
wild camp Great Knott - Long Top - Bow Fell - Esk Pike - Angle Tarn - Langdale
9 miles
2395 feet ascent, 4369 ft descent

Drifting in and out of slumber I got up and was ready to go at 8:30am. So was Mandy. Good timing. Ha. With at least a dry baselayer on, my still wet waterproofs wouldn't put me into last night's state straight away. The rain had subsided to a few light showers when we headed back to the path and on to Long Top.

On Long Top

Heading to Crinkle Crags

The clouds broke for a few seconds here and there and we could see some valleys and mountains for brief moments. Even the path ahead at some point. Our spirits where high as we made our way to Bow Fell scrambling over Crinkle Cracks which we found disappointing.
We passed a few cairns as we walked over Bow Fell's top. but were not sure if we actually walked over the summit or not, since the mist was thick again.

Esk Pike was next. We went a bit astray when we lost the path in the mist, but thanks to my GPS found our way back. Then headed down to a big path junction which we overshot at first not recognizing it. Gee, we surely couldn't complain about lack of experience in navigating in bad weather.

Navigation practice

The way back towards Langdale led over a few smaller passes and we could even see Bow Fell almost cloud free when we passed Angle Tarn which lies just at its base. Finally a bit of a view!!! The descent down into the valley after that took ages and seemed to be never ending. We reached it eventually, joined the Cumbria Way and dragged ourselves back to the campsite, arriving around 3pm.

Bow Fell and Angle Tarn

View into Langdale

I had the probably longest and hottest shower ever and decided to sleep in my car again. Not in the mood to pitch the wet tent. Put all the drenched gear into the drying room, before we went to the pub where we waited an hour for them to start serving the evening food. I destroyed a lovely minted leg of lamb with peas and washed it down with a pint of Old Rosie. Proper cider in the North. Ha!!!

Paul, another fellow Mountain Leader Trainee joined us around 7pm. He had planned the route for the following two days. Very nice chap. We chatted a bit. Had a nother drink or two and went to bed early. That is Mandy and me. Paul decided to stay out and drink with a friend until 2am.

Heading into Lakeland

I've seen countless places in the UK so far and added quite a few to the list over the past year and a half with North Wales, Brecon Beacons, Dartmoor, Peak District and very recently Exmoor. However, two very big names still remain on my todo-list. Cornwall and the Lake District. Latter one never really came to my attention as I always favoured Scotland above all and also developed a fond love of North Wales.
A month or two ago I watched a documentary on Alfred Wainwright and after hearing nothing but enthusiastic praise about "Lakeland" from different people before, that program was the missing spark to ignite a burning desire to finally explore the last of the three big mountainous areas of Britain.

I haven't read much about it, I haven't searched for pictures or trip reports. I simply know a few bits and pieces I've heard from other people. I don't want to spoil the feeling of seeing something for the very first time. Feasting the eyes on its beauty, sucking every detail in.

I'm driving up from work tomorrow to meet a fellow Mountain Leader Trainee at the National Trust campsite in Langdale. We will then go on a two-day circular walk with a wild camp on Thursday night, before we meet another ML trainee back at Langdale for another two-day round.

Right in the middle of Lakeland

Four days of walking and the weather forecast promises everything but boredom. Even though it's going to be strenuous I'm very much looking forward to meeting fellow future mountain leaders, sharing experiences and knowledge and walking in one of the most beautiful areas Britain has to offer.

Who is Mr. Vane?

As expected the weather had turned again over night, but the forecast wasn't that bad really. Some lower clouds, some showers but also some sparse patches of blue sky and sun. My friend wasn't up for another day on a hill and went happily to Fort William while I took the bus to Inveruglas to tackle Ben Vane.

Walked up the road to the Loch Sloy dam and pretty soon put on my rain gear as showers washed over me time and again. The Cobbler - a corbett - could be clearly seen and its top was just cloud free. But Ben Vane and the nearby Ben Vorlich were hidden.

Loch Lomond with Ben Lomond in the back

The Cobbler

Missed the actual path forking off, as it wasn't on the map but soon realized my error and freelanced pathless up a grassy slope of an outcrop before I joined the path.
The sun stayed a bit longer now as I was labouring up the very steep and rocky path. My legs were still tired from yesterday's walk/run and the steep ascent forced me to take frequent breaks. Tough little hill this Ben Vane.

Loch Lomond front, Loch Arklet middle and Loch Katrine back

A rare bit of blue sky while heading up

More Loch Lomond

There was a bit of a view over Loch Lomond but when I reached 800m the wind picked up and the clouds swallowed me. I could still see enough of the path and shapes of a false summit or two in the mist. It was as if Mr. Vane wanted to keep me way. When I stepped onto the summit plateau the wind picked up and threw frozen water into my face at high speed. I fought my way to the cairn, crouched just behind it and took a quick summit photo before I fled further down again.

Phew. Crouching behind the summit cairn to get at least a photo

Took extra care over the wet scrambling bits. Eventually I reached the lower parts again and caught some more sun between the showers. Took the proper path down now and was back at the power station on the A-road 15 mins before the bus picked me up. Cool.

Ben Lomond looked a bit more hospitable

Really enjoyed the walk today although the weather wasn't that good. But in the end it wasn't too bad either. Ben Vane is a tough little bugger, but worth the labour I'd say.

So I have ticked off munros number 30,31 and 32 in my two days in Crianlarich. Not too bad. Still a few to go in the area here and I need to come back for a week and tick off some more.

My friend was back around the same time. We had some coffee and chilled at the hostel for a bit, just reading and me writing this. There is no wifi anywhere in Crianlarich which is a bit of a bummer, but in the end it's not too important. I can upload my musings later on.

A Reunion, A Fell-Run and Two Munros

We left the house Saturday morning just before 9am and I said goodbye to everyone in Crianlarich. What a great group that was!!! So much fun and laugther all week. Truly a fantastic time even without a single new munro. No disappointment at all.

The sun was blazing from the sky and it was easily the best day so far. I couldn't wait to get up into the hills. AH! Got some food, dropped my bag at the hostel and picked my friend up at the bus stop. Hadn't seen her in ages. Must have been like 7 years maybe? We both weren't sure. Amazing to see her again and in Scotland even, which we both love above all.

Dropped her bag too and set off through the Crianlarich Community Forest, then up a boggy path with Cruach Ardrain as our first goal. The sun vanished pretty soon behind high dense clouds, but it was still a very enjoyable day.
We climbed up to the ridge over the Grey Height and Meall Dubh, but before the last steep climb up to the munro top my friend had to drop out. She was just too exhausted, but didn't mind waiting for me while I kept on going to the top. Said I was gonna be back in an hour, an hour and a half maximum.

An Caisteal and Ben a'Chroin

The last and steepest bit of Cruach Ardrain

After the next steep bit the path split and I could clearly see Ben Tulaichean and the path leading to it. It looked so close and so easy, would've been a shame not to take it whilst I'm here. So I literally ran down and over the bealach and climbed it as fast as I could, reaching the top huffing and puffing after 26 minutes. Couldn't enjoy the view very long since I had another munro to climb. The one I was initially here for. So I had only a very short chat with one of the guys up there, ran back down and over the bealach and climbed up to the path junction again. 50 mins round trip. Wow. Guidebook said 90. Cool.

Would've mightily regretted not bagging Ben Tulaichean

One happy climber with Cruach Ardrain in the background

But my strength was waning. Climbed the last 150m or so to the top of Cruach Ardrain with legs burning, took another quick look around and walked back down as fast as I could since I was nearing the hour and a half mark and didn't want my friend to start worrying.

Hurrying back to Cruach Ardrain

View from the top: Ben More left, Stob Binnein right

Just before the top a two-sided view of Ben Tulaichean

As it happened she hadn't even looked at her watch and had just enjoyed the nice view relaxing and thinking about this and that. Phew. After a short break we started our descent and were back in Crianlarich at 5pm both quite knackered.
Had a victory-cider on one of the benched outside the shop and tried cooking a quick meal in the tiny hostel kitchen while two other groups where chopping stuff and stirring pots on 6 of the available 8 hobs. I'm always too lazy to cook a meal that takes longer than 10 mins in a hostel. Those guys must have spent an hour or so. Don't get it.

We chilled on a bench outside with the rest of the cider and went to bed quite early after a long exhausting day.

Lismore

The last tour on Friday with the group was a walk on Lismore taking in the coast of the northern half of the island if you will. We took the ferry from Port Appin and started our walk up North, then walked around the the tip all along the coast passing a little village before we eventually arrived at another Clan McDougall castle ruin - Castle Coeffin.

A few impressions from Lismore:

Castle Coeffin

The path was a bit boggy at times but views of the mainland and the coast ahead were just lovely.
Once again I realized how much I enjoy a day walking along a British coast. It's got that raw beauty, the smell of salt, the green fields, the views. A nice change from dragging myself up rugged mountains.

Traversed the island and walked back to the ferry along the South-East coast passing a Broch, which is an old round tower which supposedly belonged to a chieftain about 2000 years ago.

Me and two others walked ahead on the tarmac road to the ferry landing and really had to push it to actually catch it at 4:15 and let the operators know that the others are not far behind us. They had no room for all of us anyway to took a few local people over and then came back for us. By then all of our group had arrived.

Had a pint at the restaurant on the other side and I would've loved to taste one of their famous fish dishes. But there was dinner waiting for us back at our house.
Packed most of my stuff before another great three-course-meal. I've never eaten so much salmon in my life and was full to bursting afterwards, hahaha.

I was too tired to sit long with the others - shame on the last day. Packed the rest and went to bed rather early.

Two Lazy Walks

Not much to tell about yesterday. All the hills were clad in low clouds so going up was more or less pointless. Instead we went to Glen Creran for a nice short easy walk, hoping not to get too wet. The first part through a bit of woodland and pasture had been spoilt by large vehicles recently which made the path a bit of a mucky wide bridleway instead of a nice grassy one. View were sparse, still the fresh air felt good and we were spared the rain so far.

Crossed the road after a semi circle to walk along the road for a bit and then through some nice woodland with moss covered trees, an infestation (in a good way) of bluebells and wild garlic and a lovely fairy bridge. Had our pick nick at a nice spot near the car park and drove to another nice but short woodland walk nearby without having donned our rain gear once so far.

The second walk took us only 45 mins through a beautiful wood at Glen Dubh before we had a pint (or two *cough*) on our way back and some time to chill back at the house. I played two games of snooker again and lost both due to too many fouls, arg. Still good fun, since we're getting better at it.