Hiking Southwest Ireland - A Conclusion

Was it worth it?

Rain, storm, fog, mud, cold. Wet feet for days, blisters, aching shoulders, hurting knees.

Sun, blue sky, stunning views of the coast and mountains and lakes, smell of wood and grass and moss and salt.

Yes. Despite the hard going sometimes it was totally worth it! Wearing the same clothes for days until the next opportunity for laundry appears. I know a good deal of people who would hate being on that trail after 5 minutes. But Ireland rewards the hard worker. Everytime I dragged myself up a mountain through the muck and rain, everytime my feet or my shoulder hurt... I kept on going and just around the next bend or up on a pass Ireland showed me why I'm actually doing this.

Breathtaking views time and again so beautiful with an almost modest charme that it makes you cry. It's like Ireland saying "Oh by the way, have a look at this." And you stop and go like "Whoah." And when you think you have seen everything this scenery has to offer it just throws another one at you in that same casual manner.

But it's not only the demanding walks that I will remember. It's the people we met and how they helped us without question. It's also the stories they told about their lives and their living in rural Ireland.  Those stories were often sad and made me think about what's really important in my life. It's not about a new guitar or the next episode of my favourite tv show. It's not about a job and earning money (though that certainly helps), it's about being there for each other.  Be it family or friends or total strangers.

I certainly hated that selfish attitude some people show before, everything judged by personal gain. I hate it even more now. When people are bumping into each other to get the train, I think about that farmer who killed first all his cattle and then shot himself because he didn't get another loan to feed his stock in the fodder crisis here. How unimportant do a lot of things look in that light, huh?

I will certainly come back. I need to see Galway, Mayo, Dingle, Donegal. Maybe I cycle, maybe I rent a car and do day trips walking. But there's still so much to see. And I have to do the horseshoe some day. One of the finest hillwalks Ireland has to offer. So this is not the end of it, more like the beginning.

Hiking Ireland In General

Be not mistaken, hiking here is not for beginners. You may do well and be lucky, but when the quite relentless weather strikes you better be prepared. I like it just because it's not a piece of cheesecake! It can be. But most certainly in a period of a week you'll come to a point where you go like "shit".
Paths are more often just small tracks than not. So walking is demanding. Plus you have to find your way around (and sometimes through) very wet and muddy ground. So here are the must-haves:

• Decent waterproof hiking boots (they'll get soaked anyway)
• Waterproof raingear
• Tape or anything to prevent and treat blisters (as your feed get wet, blisters will come easy)
• A buff with fleece or waterproof parts.
• Walking poles! Some parts would've been almost impossible to pass without. Even if you never needed them.
• Waterproof stuff sacks.  I have different colors to easily distinguish the contents (cloths, foods, etc). Don't put anything in your backpack without a waterproof cover. Nothing! It'll get wet despite a raincover for your backpack!

 What I never thought I need and learned why it's useful:

• Gaiters! Get them. Wear them! When you sink your leg into the next boghole you'll know why.
• Waterproof gloves. The wind can be quite chilly especially in combination with rain. I didn't have any but 'd be happy if I'd brought any.
• Waterproof bag for maps.

The Beara Way vs Kerry Way

Both trails are very similar in all the things I've stated above. The Beara Way is less trodden by walkers but that also means it's more remote and there are only a few hostels and camping grounds. If you have the financial means you can easily find a B&B on both trails.
Be sure to check if a hostel is open yet if you're travelling off-season.  The hostels are usually a good choice for budget accomodation. The price ranges from 15 to 25 eur per night. Sometimes that includes a continental breakfast. I was very disappointed by the Climber's Inn. It's the most expensive and the facilities were the worst of all hostels. An alternative would be the Lough Acoose B&B that also offers camping.

Recommended accommodation Beara Way:

• Hostel Allihies
• B&B Sea Villa Ardgroom http://www.seavilla1.com (the BEST B&B EVER!!!)

Recommended accomodation Kerry Way

• Youth Hostel Black Valley (closed 10:30am - 5:00pm)
• The Sleepy Camel Glenbeigh (hostel that feels like  B&B)
• Peter's Place Café & Hostel Waterville (Peter's just a fun guy to talk to for hours!!!!)
• The Traveller's Rest Hostel Caherdaniel (very nice furniture and perfectly clean)
• B&B Stonehouse Sneem. (Only 30 eur incl nice breakfast)

Good to know:

• There are no busses going to Kenmare from Caherdaniel or Sneem.
• If you need gas for your camping stove you will only get it in Bantry or Killarney. If you travel via Cork there is an outdoor shop near Parnell bus station.
• If you want to travel via Dublin be sure to book your train  tickets as early as possible as they are quickly sold out for outbound connections on Fridays and Saturdays.
• You may want to skip the first stage of the Kerry Way and take a boat ride from Ross Castle to Black Valley. You see half of it anyway on your way back from Kenmare to Killarney. You can book the boat directly at O'Connell's pub.

Must-see:

• Go to Dursey Island! If it's Tuesday you can take the rural bus. Have your host arrange it.
• Valentia Island is worth a visit. Rent a bike at Casey's and you're there in 15mins by ferry.
• When walking to Caherdaniel take a detour to the beach and Abbey Island
• Take the time and have a look at the Gap of Dunloe while you're in Black Valley. In no more than two hours you're up the road and down again. 

So which one is better? Beara Way or Kerry Way? I can't really say. They're both beautiful and very similar. It's easy to connect them via Kenmare and do both in a row. I enjoyed walking these long distance trails a lot and even consider doing them on a bicycle again some day.