Tuesday 9 October 2018

The things you find along the way

I guess today was a good mix of what Catania has to offer. I got up as early as 8am after an okay night. Fought a bit with a mozzy or two who bit me quite a few times and I was just itching trying not to scratch too much. Think I've collected at least 10 bites that night.

Either way, 8am was the time I was sure I wasn't going to fall asleep again so might as well get up. Just chilled reading, before I woke Rich as the clock was striking almost at noon and I was getting quite a bit peckish.

We headed down to the fish market La Pescheria which had been there for address, for lunch at Scirocco, a street food shop just at the verge of the market area. Opted for a octopus salad which was lush (Rich surrendered his half of it to me pretty quickly not liking the very soft bits whatever they were).
We both had a paper cone of fresh catch, me going for the fish, him going for the "senza spine", no fishbones, which was basically non-fish seafood. All of it was fresh and quickly deep fried in a bit of batter. I've never been a fan of eating a whole fish with head and all, but they were all little and super tasty.



We wandered around for a bit as a lot of stalls were already packing in. Lots and lots of cheese was still on display, ham, all sorts of salamis, fresh fruit, herbs and spices along with fresh fish and seafood. We viewed to come here again a bit earlier to get the full blast and also but some food for an Italian style breakfast.

Coffees and fresh orange juice at our C&G followed (no cakes this time) before we headed around the corner to Teatro Vincenzo Bellini, the impressive opera house. Too bad it was only open in the mornings and when there were evening events of course.

Teatro Vincenzo Bellini


Next we checked out Wine and Charme, a wine shop with a good stock of local wines, liquors etc. but we were not paid any attention as we cluelessly tried to decipher the writing on the back of the bottles. The guys in there were busy moving some stuff around so we thought we either come back later or find somewhere else.

Ended up literally next door talking for about half an hour to the super nice young Italian lady behind the counter at Enoteca di Siciliano. She told us about the little stock of local wines she has and that she only goes for small producers. We learned that Sicilian wine has a higher mineral content and that producers add shipped in grapes to their wines to be able to satisfy demand. This is of course frowned upon and wines with D.O.C. on the label are certified to not have other grapes in them.
We tasted one of the whites which was lovely, got an explanation of the other ones on offer (She was also of the opinion that you don't need to spend more than 20 quid on a really good wine.). Bought one and thanked her for her time boring to come back to taste the liquors. Fate, eh? Bit unsure in the shop we initially had thought was a good bet, ended up in another next door having a great time!

Next up were the remains of a big amphitheatre right in the city. It was really quite impressive and we marvelled at the size of it.



Then on the hunt for coffee and gelato we stumbled upon Via Crociferi which was said to be a nice one to walk up, so we did.
Lined with massive churches and palazzos it was indeed very nice. Especially when we found Villaroel, a little cafe up on the top. 



Full of locals this one was for us again. And what a find again! Super nice waitress with limited English which didn't matter one bit. Coffee so strong it could put the Pisa bell tower back up straight, but at the same time it was incredibly smooth. Best coffee I ever had. Seriously.
I went for granita, as we learned quite a Sicilian specialty that has spread across the rest of Italy. It's basically sorbet, but you eat it with a brioche bun. They were already out of our favourite choices, but we both got pistachio and chocolate. Rich was sceptical about the brioche, but I thought I have to have it the traditional way first time around and it really works well together! Rich was also convinced quickly, haha.
Back to the apartment for showers then out again for drinks and food around 19.30. Ended up at a restaurant in a quiet road just off the tourist centre for surprisingly good pale ale and some white wine.
It was spotting outside so we finished our drinks inside before we finally headed for food around 21.15. Proper Sicilian time for dinner, haha.

Again fate had it that our initially picked restaurant just across the nice cafe from earlier was already closing up. Must have been one that only opens during the day.
But we had spotted Buatta, a vibrant place just a minute before so we went back to it, got the last table outside and ordered some mojitos and cunzatizzi. A mix between a panino and pizza dough. Sounded nice. I had pulled pork with confit orange and mint. Wow. That was so lush!!!
What a find again! Local produce, Sicilian food with a modern twist. Quite modern style of the bar inside but such a warm atmosphere.


We had just finished our food when the rain turned into a proper downpour with thunder and lightning. The road turned into a river for the next hour or so, but we were ushered inside, waiter holding umbrellas for us, to sit by the bar. Well, gotta have another mojito then, haha.
Rich started chatting to a young English lad who happens to be from the little town Rich was born in and also studied at Reading university where Rich had gotten his honours. What are the chances!


Around 11pm the pavement had emerged back from under all that water so we paid up and walked the 5mins home.
Superb second day! Didn't feel like zombies anymore and the highlights were probably the wine shop and Buatta where we had such a great time.
Often it's the little things that you come across by pure chance, that are pure gold. Bring on the next day!

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