Friday, 19 April 2013

A new definition of friendliness

Wednesday: Allihies to Ardgroom
We set off early at 8:30 heading to Eyeries with Vanessa and Pascal - the two Germans we've been to Dursey with the day before. The sunny day on Dursey seemed like a dream since the sky was grey and pouring rain again.
Walked uphill on a gravel road with the clouds hanging so low that we could only see like 20 to 50 metres maybe. Despite the heavy wind and even heavier gusts it felt magical with the fog filling the spaces between rock and boulders strewn on the brown undergrowth.
Wound our way then on a very wet and boggy path along the north face of Miskish Mountain. The rain stopped after no more than 2 hours and soon the coast came into view. The turquoise water, the green fields and the mountains looming in the background... it was just stunning.
Shortly before the last hilltop and then the decent down to the road Vanessa slipped, fell and hurt her knee. She could go on after a while but not without the heavy backpack. So we got down to the road, the guys taking turns in carrying her pack. There was a house just as we reached the road and the owning couple just came back. They were so helpful! They invited us in and before we could help it we were provided with tea and biscuits. Dirty as were we sat in the kitchen and couldn't believe it. The woman drove our friends to Castletownbere as they had booked a B&B there for the night and they wanted to have a doctor check on the knee. She even went via Eyries since that was our original destination and she wanted them to see it still.
We said goodbye to our friends and walked the rest of the way to Eyries. Had an encounter with a group of very curious cows blocking our path. We cautiously maneuvered around them and kept going. The cows ever following us. As we went around a corner they advanced trotting to see where we vanished to. Climbed the next upcoming fence and left them mooing in frustration.
Arrived in Eyeries at 2:30. Way too early to call it a day and since there was a weather warning for the night with heavy winds and gales we were reluctant to pitch our tent at a small camping ground that a guy offered in his backyard.
We consulted the map and came up with a few options none of them being the perfect one. We also took into consideration the rest of the way to Kenmare and where we could possibly stay. Again the Irish helped us a great deal. We went to the post office/shop and everybody there strongly adviced us not to camp! Well okay. Those people are used to wind. If they say "Don't" we better do what they say.
The woman behind the counter made some phonecalls and gave us a few names and addresses of possible accomodation along the rest of the way. In the end we decided to stay at a B&B in Ardgroom and skip a short part of the Beara Way. That would also enable us to get to Kenmare within two more days and hopefuly arrive there early enough to get a bus or a lift to Killarney.
The owner  John and also his wife Mary were sooo friendly and forthcoming. Unbelievable again. He put our wet boots into his shack behind the house and didn't let us carry our backpacks in. The house was just so cosy and every piece of furniture carefully chosen. We felt like visiting relatives.
Got some tea and biscuits and immediately relaxed. Walked to the near sea shore afterwards but the wind and the rain made us go back after a short while. Had dinner and a very relaxed evening talking and drinking guiness and whiskey with the storm outside just being happy being inside. It was simply the best night of the tour so far.
If you go to Beara I can strongly recommend the Sea Villa B&B. Http://www.seavilla1.com. You will love it!

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