Monday 29 June 2015

Misty Mountains - Part 1 (Days 1 & 2)

Lakes, here I come!!! I left work as early as 1pm on Wednesday to drive up to the National Trust campsite in Langdale and to meet up with Mandy - another Mountain Leader trainee - who would be my hiking companion for the next four days. A 4.5 hr drive turned into a 6 hr one as an accident on the M6 held me long enough to get into proper afternoon traffic around Manchester.

Parked the car at the campsite and decided not to pitch my tent as I just couldn't be bothered. Instead I would finally sleep in the boot. I had deliberately bought that car to fit me stretched out in the back and no one would ever guess someone's in there with the windows tinted and all. Ha. Turned out to be really comfy, quiet and dry. Great!
My metal tent

Went to the nearest pub to meet up with Mandy. Had a pint or two and a chat and liked her straight away. She had planned the route for the next two days and despite a rather bad weather forecast I was eager to get going.

Day 1

Thursday 25/06/2015
Langdale - Wetherlam - Great Knott wild camp
10.5 miles
5000 ft ascent, 2789 ft descent


We set off at 8:30 am next morning, payed for our cars to stay at the site and left via a public footpath straight from the campsite leading steeply up to a pass. Clouds were very low, but despite high humidity no rain yet.
Passed by Blea Tarn and a few trees before we kind of freelanced over a grassy knoll towards the foot of Wetherlam. With the limited view we had some good practice of map and compass use, taking bearings and making note of ground features such as stone walls or streams. Still, we already had to relocate once, when we missed a fork in the path.
Blea Tarn
Handrailing we found the junction where a path up to the ridge of Wetherlam was supposed to start. We could only faintly see it and lost it time and again, navigating on general direction and altitude alone due to lack of features.
We donned waterproofs when we reached the cloud base halfway up to the ridge and spent the rest of the day alternating between light and heavy rain with a few breaks here and there. Up on the ridge there were at least some cairns to lead the way and after a few easy scrambles we reached the top of our first proper hill. Needless to say, there was no view whatsoever.


Scrambling up Wetherlam

Top of Wetherlam


Headed down to the main road, crossed it and walked over to Red Tarn. We had made good time so far with pretty much no pause and despite nearing a state of being completely soaked, we decided to head up to Great Knott. It was only 4pm and the wind had picked up as well, so instead of wild camping near Red Tarn we hoped to find a sheltered spot further up between the rocks.

We trudged on and I was getting cold in my soggy clothes with the constant wind. Up in the clouds again the view was pretty much zero. Now find a wild camp spot. It had to be fairly level, not too wet, big enough for two tents and definitely out of that biting wind. Try that while you're constantly looking through steamed glass. Not cool.
I could barely make out some rocks just after passing Great Knott and went to explore. No good. Too small and too close to the precipice. The next one was just about good enough. Mandy approved and we doubted we'd find a better spot wandering around in the mist.
It just about ticked all the boxes and was somewhat out of the wind. A short break in the rain made pitching a bit easier. I wouldn't say "pleasant" though.

In the tent I completely stripped since I was literally soaked to the bone and was glad for the dry and warm merino baselayers I had brought. Even my said-to-be waterproof socks were moist inside. I put them into the sleeping bag with me and they were dry and warm next morning
Still, it took some hours until I felt really warm again. Had some cold food and read a bit before I fell asleep around 9pm. Gusts of wind died down and although my whole tent was shaking violently in them, I was sure it would prevail.
Unfortunately, the gusts became a permanent blowing around midnight and thus kept me awake for most of the night.

Day 2

Friday 27/06/2015
wild camp Great Knott - Long Top - Bow Fell - Esk Pike - Angle Tarn - Langdale
9 miles
2395 feet ascent, 4369 ft descent


Drifting in and out of slumber I got up and was ready to go at 8:30am. So was Mandy. Good timing. Ha. With at least a dry baselayer on, my still wet waterproofs wouldn't put me into last night's state straight away. The rain had subsided to a few light showers when we headed back to the path and on to Long Top.
On Long Top


Heading to Crinkle Crags

The clouds broke for a few seconds here and there and we could see some valleys and mountains for brief moments. Even the path ahead at some point. Our spirits where high as we made our way to Bow Fell scrambling over Crinkle Cracks which we found disappointing.
We passed a few cairns as we walked over Bow Fell's top. but were not sure if we actually walked over the summit or not, since the mist was thick again.

Esk Pike was next. We went a bit astray when we lost the path in the mist, but thanks to my GPS found our way back. Then headed down to a big path junction which we overshot at first not recognizing it. Gee, we surely couldn't complain about lack of experience in navigating in bad weather.

Navigation practice

The way back towards Langdale led over a few smaller passes and we could even see Bow Fell almost cloud free when we passed Angle Tarn which lies just at its base. Finally a bit of a view!!! The descent down into the valley after that took ages and seemed to be never ending. We reached it eventually, joined the Cumbria Way and dragged ourselves back to the campsite, arriving around 3pm.

Bow Fell and Angle Tarn

View into Langdale

I had the probably longest and hottest shower ever and decided to sleep in my car again. Not in the mood to pitch the wet tent. Put all the drenched gear into the drying room, before we went to the pub where we waited an hour for them to start serving the evening food. I destroyed a lovely minted leg of lamb with peas and washed it down with a pint of Old Rosie. Proper cider in the North. Ha!!!

Paul, another fellow Mountain Leader Trainee joined us around 7pm. He had planned the route for the following two days. Very nice chap. We chatted a bit. Had a nother drink or two and went to bed early. That is Mandy and me. Paul decided to stay out and drink with a friend until 2am.

Tuesday 23 June 2015

Heading into Lakeland

I've seen countless places in the UK so far and added quite a few to the list over the past year and a half with North Wales, Brecon Beacons, Dartmoor, Peak District and very recently Exmoor. However, two very big names still remain on my todo-list. Cornwall and the Lake District. Latter one never really came to my attention as I always favoured Scotland above all and also developed a fond love of North Wales.
A month or two ago I watched a documentary on Alfred Wainwright and after hearing nothing but enthusiastic praise about "Lakeland" from different people before, that program was the missing spark to ignite a burning desire to finally explore the last of the three big mountainous areas of Britain.

I haven't read much about it, I haven't searched for pictures or trip reports. I simply know a few bits and pieces I've heard from other people. I don't want to spoil the feeling of seeing something for the very first time. Feasting the eyes on its beauty, sucking every detail in.

I'm driving up from work tomorrow to meet a fellow Mountain Leader Trainee at the National Trust campsite in Langdale. We will then go on a two-day circular walk with a wild camp on Thursday night, before we meet another ML trainee back at Langdale for another two-day round.

Right in the middle of Lakeland
Four days of walking and the weather forecast promises everything but boredom. Even though it's going to be strenuous I'm very much looking forward to meeting fellow future mountain leaders, sharing experiences and knowledge and walking in one of the most beautiful areas Britain has to offer.