Arrivederci Roma

Since the day was promised to be sunshine and blue sky again I decided not to spend it in the Vatican Museum. I will do that next time on a rainy day. Went to Basilica S. Giovanni in Laterano instead. Good decision. Again a very nice and richly decorated church. I found the fresco covered walls and ceiling most impressive. So many details everywhere... wonderfull.
Leisurely walked to the central station to get my train ticket to the airport just in case and then veered back into downtown Rome.
Passed Santa Maria sopra Minerva and decided to have a look inside. I found myself in the only gothic church of Rome with a beautiful blue, gold and red ceiling, a masterpiece by Filippino Lippi and nice plasters - one done by Michelangelo himself.
The aisles where where lined by alcoves each with a small altar of its own and a dome with a window. This style seems to be quite common in Rome.
Asked my guidebook where to eat pasta and came up with Maccheroni situated roughly near the Piazza Navonna. Good decision again. Most tabled where occupied that is usually a good sign. The staff was quite fun and easy going making compliments on my tattoos and asking me what German soccer team I favour. I normally don't eat pasta, but I had to have some Carbonara before I leave since it's said to be a Roman specialty. The pasta was just fabulous! Forget every pasta you ever had outside of Italy. It's someting completely different... in a bad way.
Anyway. Just having a cider at an Irish pub I came across, haha. Leaving in a few hours.  Will just walk the rest of the way to the train station and go home from there.
There's a fee things I want to say about my days here. But I'll do that in a sepperate post. Despite a week between my two holidays I was still kind of stuck in Ireland with my mind and soul. I kept thinking they're all driving on the wrong side and was always glancing to my right first when crossing the street, haha. And it certainly took a while for me to get accustomed to the masses of people, the traffic and the constant noise. But in the end I enjoyed my stay. I saw a lot and there are still enough things on my agenda to make me want to come back.

Monday Church-Day

Actually I wanted to do some window shopping today as it was promised to be sunny with a clear blue sky all day.  The plan was to visit some of the countless churches my guidebook recommended on the way.
Started with San Clemente near thr Colosseo.  The interior was quite nice with a lot of marble, but the most interesting part was hidden underground. During excavations earlier layers of the building were revealed. First there was a Roman Mithras temple and a mansion, then in the 4th century a Christian church was built on top. In the 12th century another one that was slightly modified in the 18th century to appear as seen today. You can actually go to the dimmly lit underground and see all these layers including some frescos from the 9th century. Most amazing.
Next was SS. Quattro Coronati with a nice cloistered courtyard. Been there done that. The huge Santa Maria Maggiore was more interesting again. Bernini has his tomb here along with some popes and the wooden ceiling is covered with the first shipment of gold from the New World. The whole interior is richly decorated and the canopy over the main altar looks at a first fleeting glance similar to the one Bernini did for San Pietro but at a closer look it just looks like a cheap copy without any of the elaborate carvings.
Went down to Via Nazionale and walked it from one end to the other. This is the place for affordable clothes. Especially if you're interested in leather jackets. Sat down outside a bar just because they had cider and ordered a salad along with it. Had a long and interesting chat with the American couple that was sitting at the table next to mine before I continued to Piazza della Repubblica and the Michelangelo designed Santa Maria degli Angeli with its still working Meridian inside.
Went over to San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane and Sant' Andrea al Quirinale. The first one being Boromini's last work excels in its elegant simplicity. His eternal rival Bernini designed the other one right next to it only devided by a small park. The almost oppressing lavishness of its interior design is such a difference that I strongly recommend visiting both churches.
Walked over to the last sight of today: The Capuchin museum at Santa Maria Immacolata with its very special crypta. Learned a bit about the order and what it is about since I didn't really knew anything about them except that they're monks.
But the crypta was what I was here for. From the 17th to the 19th century the monks had taken their brothers' bones and used them for decorating the crypta. Patterns made of ribs, shoulder blades or vertebrae decorate the walls and ceiling. Hundreds of skulls and bones are pilled on the walls forming alcoves for skeletons lying or standing dressed in the monks' garment. It's so amazing.
Had some ice cream and dinner at Trastevere again before I headed home in the dusk. Only then did I realize how much I had seen today.

A day at the park

Not much to tell today. Went to Villa Borghese park today as a lot of Romans did. When I passed the Colosseo I got caught in an anti-abortion demonstrstion. Arg. Felt so wrong in an odd way. Like when I enter a church: My opinion is completely contradictory and I just hope they won't realize that, haha.
After the delay I kept on walking to the park and witnessed some kind of flashmob on the Spanish stairs. People sitting there suddenly stood up taking off their coats revealing orange shirts underneath. Two of them did something with an inflatable dummy, I couldn't make out what that was. The others were applauding and after a minute it was over. Hm. Lame.

Villa Borghese park is really nice. I didn't mind all the people on a sunny Sunday since there were a lot of Romans and the tourists vanished among them.
Went to see the Etrurian museum situated in Villa Giulia. It's really worth it! The villa itself is fantastic, the museum is a must see for people interested in ancient peoples... like me. It was almost deserted. I think most people rather want to see the famous statues and paintings the Musei Vaticani have to offer just to be able to say they've seen them. I believe that 80% wouldn't even be able to judge the artist's skill and place his object into the historical context... that includes me. Haha. That's why I'm much more interested in the Egyptian collection for instance.
Anyway walked around a bit in the park and then went to another of the best gelaterias. This one is called San Crispino and they don't use artificial flavours etc. I can only recommend this one! It's almost hidden and there is no fancy display. But the ice cream is simply fantastic.

Early bird

Got up as early as 5:30 today to walk to San Pietro and avoid the queue. Was taken for a local and asked for directions,  passed by Colosseo, Piazza Navona and Sant' Angelo with no one present.  Awsome! Especially when you know what these places look like during the day.
Entered San Pietro with the few dozen people who were there as early as me. The cathedral is quite impressive I have to admit if only for its height and rich interior. Bernini's canopy is just a unique masterpiece.  Unfortunately you can only see it from a distance which makes it difficult if not impossible to make out the intricate carvings.
In all its splendor I still missed the special atmosphere that churches usually have. Despite the crowd the Pantheon was such a difference yesterday. I don't know. San Pietro looked to me like catholic business.  There were priests in half of the alcoves and worshippers doing... well dunno some kind of service I guess. And visitor could sit or kneel and listen to their readings or incantations.
I have to admit I have never been present to a service and I still feel kind of uncomfortable in a curious kind of way watching those rituals. Still it's interesting to see how people seem to gain strength from praying. And seeing all those priests and monks and nuns... I was close to asking them how they live. What they do each day. How they live without love. Well, yeah. They claim they have the love of God, but how can you live without bodily love? If that only means a hug sometimes?

Anyway, climbed the 500+ stairs to the cupola. The guys in front of me where younger than me and had to stop a few times to catch their breath when I was still feeling like a walk in fhe park, haha. Seems like I have gained some stamina during the last few months.
The walk around the inside of the cupola is impressive. Michelangelo's paintings are outstanding although I could not really enjoy it in full due to the high fence. Guess people used to commit suicide there as the fence ws like 2.50m high.
Ascended to the roof next. The view was great. The only decent view of piazza San Pietro.

Went to the Musei Vaticani next. They openend at 9am and it was 9:15 when I arrived there. Gee, it was crazy! The queue was like 500m by then. Totally crazy!  I decided to have a walk to Piazza del Popolo, the best Gelateria in town near Piazza Colonna and walk to the Colosseo from there since my ticket for the three sights in that area (Palatino, Foro, Colosseo) was only valid till today 6:30PM.
Since I already had my ticket I was in there in like 5mins, haha. Avoiding the queue and all those people pestering you with their overpriced "skip the line" tickets. No, thank you.
Went home afterwards for a nap and headed out to Trastevere again for food and drinks. Ended up at the very nice Baccanale with reasonable prices and good food.
Tomorrow and Monday are promised to have sun, sun, sun. So I will head to Villa Borghese and spent the day at the park.

Rome!

I always wanted to go to Rome. When I had worked on three of my off-days lately I decided to take the gained extra days and go to Rome. With a weekend in between and a bank holiday that would be six days all together.
Took a mid day flight on Thursday and arrived at my accomodation shortly after 3pm. I had booked a room in Testaccio via AirBnB for only 35Eur a night. I have my own bathroom and my own set of keys. Perfect. My host is very nice and the walk to the Colosseo only takes 15 mins.
Just walked around a bit on Thursday as I had only half a day's time. As expected the areas around the inner city and the great sights are packed. But it's not so bad. Guess it's crazy in June and September.
On Friday I went to the Palatino as early as 8:45am shortly after they opend to avoid the mentioned masses of tourists. Worked out pretty well. The ruins are quite impressive for their sheer size though it's still hard to imagine what the whole place looked like 2000 years ago. If they'd install some 3D experience rotunda like the imax cinemas I'd certainly pay for it!
Took me two relaxed hours till I decended to the Foro Romano. By then the place was crawling with tourists. I think I was the only single person among countless guided groups and couples. There is a lot to see as well so I took my time.
Went strolling around the inner city afterwards. Passed Piazza Navona with the impressive Bernini designed fountain, Campo di Fiori and countless small piazzas and small alleys. Had some coffee and an insalata and walked over to the Castel Sant' Angelo. Also had a look at San Pietro but it was afternoon by then and not worth queuing anymore.
They open at 7am so tomorrow I'll be there by 7am hoping to avoid the rush that will certainly start at 10am. Also on tomorrow's agenda: Musei Vaticani as the forecast says there'll be some rain and Colosseo.

Hiking Southwest Ireland - A Conclusion

Was it worth it?

Rain, storm, fog, mud, cold. Wet feet for days, blisters, aching shoulders, hurting knees.

Sun, blue sky, stunning views of the coast and mountains and lakes, smell of wood and grass and moss and salt.

Yes. Despite the hard going sometimes it was totally worth it! Wearing the same clothes for days until the next opportunity for laundry appears. I know a good deal of people who would hate being on that trail after 5 minutes. But Ireland rewards the hard worker. Everytime I dragged myself up a mountain through the muck and rain, everytime my feet or my shoulder hurt... I kept on going and just around the next bend or up on a pass Ireland showed me why I'm actually doing this.

Breathtaking views time and again so beautiful with an almost modest charme that it makes you cry. It's like Ireland saying "Oh by the way, have a look at this." And you stop and go like "Whoah." And when you think you have seen everything this scenery has to offer it just throws another one at you in that same casual manner.

But it's not only the demanding walks that I will remember. It's the people we met and how they helped us without question. It's also the stories they told about their lives and their living in rural Ireland.  Those stories were often sad and made me think about what's really important in my life. It's not about a new guitar or the next episode of my favourite tv show. It's not about a job and earning money (though that certainly helps), it's about being there for each other.  Be it family or friends or total strangers.

I certainly hated that selfish attitude some people show before, everything judged by personal gain. I hate it even more now. When people are bumping into each other to get the train, I think about that farmer who killed first all his cattle and then shot himself because he didn't get another loan to feed his stock in the fodder crisis here. How unimportant do a lot of things look in that light, huh?

I will certainly come back. I need to see Galway, Mayo, Dingle, Donegal. Maybe I cycle, maybe I rent a car and do day trips walking. But there's still so much to see. And I have to do the horseshoe some day. One of the finest hillwalks Ireland has to offer. So this is not the end of it, more like the beginning.

Hiking Ireland In General

Be not mistaken, hiking here is not for beginners. You may do well and be lucky, but when the quite relentless weather strikes you better be prepared. I like it just because it's not a piece of cheesecake! It can be. But most certainly in a period of a week you'll come to a point where you go like "shit".
Paths are more often just small tracks than not. So walking is demanding. Plus you have to find your way around (and sometimes through) very wet and muddy ground. So here are the must-haves:

• Decent waterproof hiking boots (they'll get soaked anyway)
• Waterproof raingear
• Tape or anything to prevent and treat blisters (as your feed get wet, blisters will come easy)
• A buff with fleece or waterproof parts.
• Walking poles! Some parts would've been almost impossible to pass without. Even if you never needed them.
• Waterproof stuff sacks.  I have different colors to easily distinguish the contents (cloths, foods, etc). Don't put anything in your backpack without a waterproof cover. Nothing! It'll get wet despite a raincover for your backpack!

 What I never thought I need and learned why it's useful:

• Gaiters! Get them. Wear them! When you sink your leg into the next boghole you'll know why.
• Waterproof gloves. The wind can be quite chilly especially in combination with rain. I didn't have any but 'd be happy if I'd brought any.
• Waterproof bag for maps.

The Beara Way vs Kerry Way

Both trails are very similar in all the things I've stated above. The Beara Way is less trodden by walkers but that also means it's more remote and there are only a few hostels and camping grounds. If you have the financial means you can easily find a B&B on both trails.
Be sure to check if a hostel is open yet if you're travelling off-season.  The hostels are usually a good choice for budget accomodation. The price ranges from 15 to 25 eur per night. Sometimes that includes a continental breakfast. I was very disappointed by the Climber's Inn. It's the most expensive and the facilities were the worst of all hostels. An alternative would be the Lough Acoose B&B that also offers camping.

Recommended accommodation Beara Way:

• Hostel Allihies
• B&B Sea Villa Ardgroom http://www.seavilla1.com (the BEST B&B EVER!!!)

Recommended accomodation Kerry Way

• Youth Hostel Black Valley (closed 10:30am - 5:00pm)
• The Sleepy Camel Glenbeigh (hostel that feels like  B&B)
• Peter's Place Café & Hostel Waterville (Peter's just a fun guy to talk to for hours!!!!)
• The Traveller's Rest Hostel Caherdaniel (very nice furniture and perfectly clean)
• B&B Stonehouse Sneem. (Only 30 eur incl nice breakfast)

Good to know:

• There are no busses going to Kenmare from Caherdaniel or Sneem.
• If you need gas for your camping stove you will only get it in Bantry or Killarney. If you travel via Cork there is an outdoor shop near Parnell bus station.
• If you want to travel via Dublin be sure to book your train  tickets as early as possible as they are quickly sold out for outbound connections on Fridays and Saturdays.
• You may want to skip the first stage of the Kerry Way and take a boat ride from Ross Castle to Black Valley. You see half of it anyway on your way back from Kenmare to Killarney. You can book the boat directly at O'Connell's pub.

Must-see:

• Go to Dursey Island! If it's Tuesday you can take the rural bus. Have your host arrange it.
• Valentia Island is worth a visit. Rent a bike at Casey's and you're there in 15mins by ferry.
• When walking to Caherdaniel take a detour to the beach and Abbey Island
• Take the time and have a look at the Gap of Dunloe while you're in Black Valley. In no more than two hours you're up the road and down again. 

So which one is better? Beara Way or Kerry Way? I can't really say. They're both beautiful and very similar. It's easy to connect them via Kenmare and do both in a row. I enjoyed walking these long distance trails a lot and even consider doing them on a bicycle again some day.

Cork, Blarney Castle

First day in Cork was mostly spent at Blarney Castle and its beautiful gardens. Funny thing is, they have a stone on top of the castle that you have to kiss so good things will happen to you. It's not so easily accessible so people are let down on a mattress and then their free hanging head is underneath that stone. They can get a picture of the "procedure" and even a certificate. And people really line up! We were the only ones who gladly passed.  The Americans even tried to get the stone over to the U.S. for a tour. Unbelievable!
The different gardens in the area are much more interesting so we spent most of the time there. Good weather again. Can't believe it.