A Worthy Last Day

After the last three fantastic days our limbs were tired and our joints hurting. The weather forecast for Tuesday had turned from thunder storms to light rain to bright sun all day whilst we were here, so there was really no excuse not to go up a mountain.

We chose a slightly shorter route starting at the other end of the valley just opposite Helm Crag which we had climbed on day one.
Heading up Stone Arthur was steep enough for some sweat again and we were glad to wear our fell running trainers today. It had been so dry recently that those light shoes were perfect for walking, no slipping at all.

The views back down into Grasmere were stunning! We could make out our route from day one as well and the higher we got the more peaks we could spot. I'm slowly getting better at this, now having been on quite a few of them. The Old Man, Pavey Ark, Bow Fell and even Scafell Pike could be seen amongst many more. Wow.

Headed up to 750m high Great Rigg which offered fantastic views towards Fairfield, Heron Pike and Ambleside on Windermere. Totally worth it!
The wind was blasting up there so we headed down a bit and over the Heron Pike, then down into Rydal.

Our knees didn't like the way down very much but a pub was waiting at the end so we were quite happy to keep on going.

We had passed by the Badger Bar a few times and it looked quite inviting. Good to have the time to check it out.
There we sat in the sun with proper cider after a three hour walk having climbed almost 3000ft. Goes without saying that those two pints went straight into our heads. Soaking it up with a very tasty light lunch didn't help much.

Quite reluctant and sluggish we rose and walked into bustling Ambleside. Enjoyed browsing the numerous outdoor shops even though we were not looking for something specific.
Payed a visit to a friend who works at Adventure Peaks and had a quick chat before we picked up some ice cream and sat by the lake for a bit.

Food at The Priest Hole was as good as it sounded on the menu and since the next bus was more than an hour away, we walked to Rydal for a quick pint at the Badger Bar and then jumped on board. £3.50 for an 8 minute ride. Wow. That was unexpected. 

Back in Grasmere we headed for one last holiday treat on this great last day: a gin & tonic at the Red Lion hotel. Being asked what kind of gin I'd like and what kind of tonic... that took me by surprise. Proper G&T is what we got. Yum!

A worthy last day indeed with a great walk, great food and sun, sun, sun. We'll sleep like babies tonight.

Helvellyn Who?

Third day in a row in the Lake District and again a fantastic one. And so far every day had been quite different compared to the one before in terms of scenery, atmosphere and walking.

After The Old Man we had just one more biggie on our tick list for the trip: Helvellyn. Looming at 950 metres it's one of the highest tops in the Lakes. Of a handful of paths leading up, two certainly stick out as the most exciting for a walker: Striding Edge and Swirral Edge, both grade 1 ridge scrambles. We opted for the latter hoping it wouldn't be as busy as it's famous neighbour.

After an enjoyable drive over Kirkstone Pass which reminded me of the Gap of Dunloe in South West Ireland we arrived in Glenridding in bright sunshine but with the surrounding hills partially hidden on low cloud. I was sure it was going to lift soon, so we had a coffee and set off along the river Ulls Water.

Catstye Cam, a 890m cone shaped hill was dominating the scenery directly ahead and we just had to climb it. Once more we were sweating profoundly as we made our way up the path towards Red Tarn and the veered off to head up Catstye Cam.
Having come around a corner we could finally see the top of Helvellyn ahead, but I wasn't impressed at all.
Catstye Cam was a proper calf burner but view from its top were stunning. Most of all towards both scrambling ridges. With three of such remarkable features around, who's actually Helvellyn???

From the top of Catstye we headed a short bit down and then finally up Swirral Edge. The scramble was easy and good fun, but too short. Boo.
Helvellyn itself was busy so we just took a quick picture and headed further along the broad ridge towards Nethermost Pike. Had some lunch when we found a spot out of the cold steady wind enjoying the very hazy view.

After Nethermost Pike just one more peak was left for today: Dollywagon Pike. What a name, huh.
We could easily see our way back from up there down in Grisedale Valley. The surrounding peaks were impressive and inviting but heading up St Sunday Crag or Fairfield would've been too much for today.

Down we went and along the valley floor back towards Glenridding. What a fantastic day today, but our limbs were tired and our feet sore. The last bit was a bit of a drag... until we climbed a short way up to Lany Tarn and had a stunning view from up there down to Glenridding and Ullswater lake.

After 11.5 miles and 3200ft elevation gain we were happy to get rid of our boots and have a victory pint at the Traveller's Rest.

Had a very spicy Madras curry back at the hostel and just lying down for a chill after turned into a half hour nap. Before it was too late to get up again we moved our tired bodies into the shower and then chilled a bit in the hostel lounge.

Easier day tomorrow with a hill or two on the way from Grasmere into Ambleside. Just stretching the legs a bit with a chill afternoon in Ambleside.

A Busy Old Man

After quite a long day yesterday we both fancied something slightly shorter. With the weather fantastic as it was it was really just a choice between the less busy hill from out tick list: Helvellyn or The Old Man of Coniston.  We chose the latter one as it was easier to make it a shorter walk.
Left the hostel at 9am and easily found a spot in a car park in Coniston half an hour later. But while we were sipping coffees we could see cars pulling in every couple of minutes or so. Glad we arrived here when we did.

Headed uphill and by the minute it got busier. I was a bit annoyed by the crowds but didn't really fancy missing out on a fine mountain just because it was a bank holiday weekend.

Got quite a sweat on again slogging uphill past humongous piles of slate rubble with remnants of quarry buildings here and there. Quite a unique sight indeed, even if it's because man so brutally exploited the hill.

The top was busy but there was enough space for people to sit down and enjoy the views stunning as they were. Good to see Wetherlam and Swirl How. I've been on both in the most horrendous weather last year and it was good to see what they actually looked like.

Headed over to Swirl How and then back down looping back into Coniston for some well deserved roast beef at The Black Bull. Rich got enjoyed his Bluebird XB ale. One he was very keen on drinking again since you can only get it at The Black Bull.

Enjoyed some more ice cream in the waning late afternoon sun back in Grasmere and a drink on the bench outside the YHA main building. What a nice day! Helvellyn and the scramble of Swirral Edge tomorrow. Yeah!

Six in a day

With such a nice weather forecast we had to go for a high route today and had an almost epic and most certainly lovely day in the Lakes, bagging six Wainwrights on the way.
Our circular route from Grasmere to High Raise and back first took us steeply up to Helm Crags two rock needles. With the sun shining we soon zipped off the lower bits of our trousers and got a proper sweat on as we made our way up. Views down to Grasmere were stunning if a bit hazy.
Scrambled up the first and half of the second rock needle. Without proper gear the second one would've been too dangerous a climb.

Onwards we went over Gibson Knott and Calf Crag, Wainwrights two and three today. It was still fairly warm when clouds were taking over the sky and without so much as a gentle breeze sometime the air was buzzing with flies and the like.

After a nice lunch break at the path junction on Greenup Edge we headed straight for High Raise and Sergeant Man after, four and five on our Wainwright tick list.
Views were magical with the impressive central fells standing out by their shape only in the haze.

Onwards we went over a rocky and knobbly ridge via Blea Rigg (number 6) and Lang How before we headed down the steep and faint (as in mostly invisible) path back down into Grasmere.

Around 20km and 3000ft elevation gain, not bad for the first day and although the sun had vanished quite soon it was still very enjoyable.
Had some locally made ice cream and a drink at the pub. Heading over to the YHA now for a shower and a big pot of chilli!

Back in the Lakes

Almost on the day a year ago I went to the Lake District for the very first time ever. I spend four days and two nights wild camping mostly in driving rain, low cloud and harsh winds. I loved it!!! And vowed to come back.

Today was the day and under much better circumstances. Left Bristol early Friday morning for a very long bank holiday weekend and made it to Grasmere in five hours without being held up by traffic more than we expected to.

Pitched the tent at Grasmere YHA in bright sunshine and walked around town for a bit... in shorts. It was THAT warm!
What a sweet little place this is. Touristy, yes. But sweet nevertheless. Lovely Lakeland style houses, tea rooms, cafes, pubs and crafts shops in a scenery dominated by the surrounding fells.

Set the plan for tomorrow over a pint in the sun. The only criteria was to start the walk from here and within five minutes we had come up with a roughly  20km circular taking in Helm Crag, following the ridge to High Raise and walking back via Sergeant Crag and Blea Crag.

Had a cheeky fish & chips at The Red Lion Inn a colleague recommended. Had the best tartare sauce ever and chunky chips as big as logs. Thanks for the tip Phil!

Weather looks ok for tomorrow, so looking forward to a great mostly dry day with fine views.

South Snowdonia - The Hidden Gem

After my week in South Devon I drove straight up to another fantastic old house near Tywyn for my last week as a customer of Wandern Schottland... and to get to know the walks as this is very likely going to be a tour I'll be doing as a guide next year.

From the first night on the group was happily chatting away and laughing heartily pretty much all the time until we parted a week after. I think I never had such a fun and lively group ever in my history of nine tours with Wandern Schottland.

The part of Snowdonia that is South of the Mawddach Estuary (and the Rhinogs to the North to be honest) is much overlooked with people always going for the higher peaks up North. Funny enough the place is interveined with footpaths.
We walked mostly grassy hills and fields with brilliant views into green valleys, the highlights being the Precipice Walk near Dolgellau and walking the the barren, almost Scottish landscape between the Cadair Idris range and the estuary.

Did three morning cycles in stunning scenery

Walking back into Abergynolwyn

Bluebell carpet and gnarly oaks in Happy Valley

The village of Borth

We walked along the coast with feet in the cold sea water from Tywyn to Aberdovey and on the Ceredigion Coast Path from Borth to Aberystwyth. Three mornings I went on a short 13-15mi cycle ride to Bird Rock and back before the day's walk. Views were stunning and roads empty. I absolutely loved it and still had enough energy to do the walk after.

We only met very few people when walking which was good for us but doesn't do the area justice. There are endless paths to explore and I had fallen in love with this area when I did my NNAS Gold (navigation) course here last October. There is so much more to see and do and I will definitely be back, even if I'm aiming to complete the Welsh 3000s up North at the same time.

With a forecast of fantastic weather on Friday I couldn't just drive home in the morning. Instead I drove the 30 mins to Minffordd to once more tackle Cadair Idris, this time via the Minffordd path, making it a full circular walk by including Mynydd Moel, a new entry on my list of bagged peaks.
With the sun shining from a bright blue sky I was soon walking in shorts and tank top as I made my way ever upwards keeping a very committed pace. My goal: Get to the top at 894 metres in under 2 hours. With the help of an intra-workout energy sports drink (I fondly named this devil's brew "rocket fuel") I made it in 1:50hrs, even stopping for a few photos here and there. Wow!

On Penygader again (The highest top of the Cadair Idris ridge)

View to the West

Walked over to Mynydd Moel - the next top on the broad and long ridge of Cadair Idris and made my way down back to the car before the four hour mark. Result! What an end to a fantastic week in Wales!

Back home in Bristol it feels like I've been away for ages. Two weeks full of walking and cycling with great people and stunning scenery certainly feels like it. And only a week and a half to go before I'm headed for some walking in the lovely Lake District with my man Rich.

First Time Group Guiding in South Devon

It feels weird not to be blogging while I'm travelling and only just briefly reporting on my ventures afterwards. I've just come back from two weeks of guided walks with Wandern Schottland. My last two weeks as a customer after faithfully booking with them every year for the last five years. What sounds like I wasn't happy at all on my last two trips couldn't be further from the truth. Instead, I'm going to change sides and will be a tour guide from next year on.

Mostly my week in Devon was to shadow company owner Martin and help out here and there and to lead a complete walk for one day. 16 people following my lead. Wow. But more on that later.

Drove down to Devon on Friday April 29, picked up some farm cider on the way down and arrived at the lovely converted barn of Bickleigh Farm near Halwell half six to settle in, chat with the cook who I've met a few times before and two people of the group who had arrived on their own as well.
The rest arrived quite late due to heavy traffic on the M5. I'm tempted to say "as usual" people were very nice, relaxed and interesting. Funny though, that I instinctively knew, that this was going to be a week of very relaxed walking. Somehow - with enough experience - you can judge someone's level of fitness and skill in walking.

The first day was spent in Dartmoor on a nice circular walk including Hound Tor and Hay Tor. With just 11 kilometres I was merely stretching my legs, but enjoyed the nice weather and climbing every rock and tor I came across which gave me quite some reputation early on, haha.
Loved getting to know everyone a bit better and having quite a few laughs.

Sunday we did a linear walk from Hope Cove to Salcombe. I had done it last September and enjoyed it very much the second time around. Had a chance to have a bit of a talk with Martin about tour guiding and everything around it at the end of the walk while the group was headed into Salcombe.
Did a cider tasting with the group that night which was great fun and well received. I had brought a variety from sweet to dry and even a Perry. Needless to say I ended up with some left overs which I immediately started to tackle, haha.

With some rain on Monday we split the day in two and walked for a couple of hours near Loddiswell and then headed to the coast near Dartmouth. I had just enough time to stuff my face with some salt and pepper calamaris from that little chip shop Rich and me had found i town off the beaten track last September. One of group joined me and was equally delighted about how gorgeous it tasted.

Tuesday was the day of truth. I was going to lead the group all day long from Torcross to Start Point and then to East Prawle. Martin was driving the bus to East Prawle while we were walking and would meet us on a beach just after the light house. I was on my own.
I found it a bit difficult to be the leader all of a sudden after having been a "normal" member of the group for the first few days. But I knew the path so I could concentrate on keeping the group together and pointing out interesting bits here and there. I had read about the story of the tank at Torcross and the storm that destroyed Hallsands in 1917 and people seemed very interested in both stories.
The weather was stunning with lots and lots of sun and before I knew it, we had reached the beach for our lunch break and met Martin again. I had still everyone with me and it had been fairly easy so far. We had a quick chat and lunch and I ventured off to enjoy some bouldering on the countless sea beaten rocks that littered the beach.
Kept on leading the group all the way to East Prawle with Martin watching from behind. Had some lovely Devon ice cream in the sun at the end of the walk and by then I knew I felt good being a walking guide. Feedback was very good as well, so yeah! I'm going to be a tour guide!!! Whoopwhoop!!!

Wednesday and Thursday the weather finally turned from cold and sunny to warm and sunny. We walked from the house to Totness and did another circular in Dartmoor near Holne. Fantastic days and good fun people. I tracked all the walks with my GPS watch so I can look them up with a map at home and have some safety net when walking them again with a group.

There is a lot more to being a tour guide than "just" leading the walks. This is almost the easy bit. But I'm ready to do it and very much looking forward to my first appointed tour next year. Although I'm probably gonna be proper nervous, ha!