Kilimanjaro, Hakuna Matata - Part 3

03.01. Barafu Camp - Uhuru Peak (5895m / 19341ft) - Mweka Camp (3100m / 10170ft)
Step by step

Summit day!!! Whoohooo!!!! I woke up 4 minutes to midnight after only two hours of sleep and perfectly on time. Had packed the night before so I simply put the last layers of clothing on and took care to stay warm. After a quick and simple breakfast we set off pretty much on time at 1am. Sandwiches and chocolate bars had been provided, but I only took two small packs of nuts from the pile of food with me. It's said you need sugar at high altitude, but I was determined not to stray from my diet. Had found some protein bars a few weeks before at Boots which only have a few carbs and would feed on some of those.

With head torches alight we set off in single file and could already see other groups ahead. One setting off from camp and several more on the big black lump that Kili was in the middle of the night. The almost full moon shed a good deal of light, so I wasn't too worried when my head torch went out not long after we had started our long summit day. I could turn it on again, but it just seemed to me it didn't like the cold/altitude at all since it just went dark again five mins later. Boo!

We walked super slowly out of camp and up the first steeper part. It was too slow for me to get my body really working and producing warmth. After 45 mins we stopped for a short break, nibbling a bit of food and having a few sips of water. I could feel the cold seeping through my boots and winter socks and after only five minutes my feet where rather cold. Luckily we continued soon.
Every 45-60 mins we took those short stops and after the third my feet were numb lumps of ice. I tried rubbing them, putting feet- and hand warmers into my boots but nothing worked. In the end - dreading frost bite -  I decided to just put a second pair of socks on and hope for the sun to come out soon and warm my feet through the leather of my boots. I would rather have my toes amputated than turn back now, hahaha.

Around 5000m one of our group had to walk back down with one of four local guides that accompanied us. I heard and saw others suffering and staggering too, but felt pretty good myself. So far a walk in the park.
Concentrating on my breathing time passed quickly and it was 5:30am before I knew it. The first rays of the setting sun behind Mawenzi fuelled my determination even more. It is hard to find words for the most beautiful dawn I have ever witnessed. Longing so much for the sun after such a long night, its rays were completely encompassing and imbuing me, planting an overwhelming feeling of peace into my mind.
With tears in my eyes I just knew that everything was going to be okay and there was nothing that could stop me now.

The most beautiful sunset behind Mawenzi

As were got closer to the crater rim, we met more and more people going down already, many of them encouraging us to keep going. Two of our small group were lacking behind when the rest reached Stella Point around 8:30am. We understood why some people turn around here. It's almost as high as the "real" summit and many are just completely wasted after the long and steep last bit of the climb.

I couldn't stop looking back over to Mawenzi

Stella Point, almost there

We had a short break to recover our strength and were just about to head off along the rim to the "real" peak - Uhuru Peak - which is not much higher, when our two missing companions made their way to Stella Point. Our oldest member Tim (71) and his wife whose asthma made it all the harder for her dragged themselves up to the sign post. What a great achievement!!!

We waited for both to recover and made our way together along the rim now. Not much elevation gain but at this altitude it took us another hour to finally, finally reach the highest point of Africa! Uhuru Peak.

We gathered just a few steps away from the signpost and made our way there all together as one group. No one suggested that. We simply did it without the need to agree on it. The second most memorable moment on this trip. What an expression of the comrade- and honest friendship that this group had developed over such a short time. In our hearts we felt for the one who hadn't made it and he was truly missing.

9:30am on the roof of Africa. Finally!!! After a whole year of looking forward to this single moment after days of approaching and 8.5hrs of walking 1200m/4000ft uphill on this summit day, this moment was only the icing on the cake. It was only one of many I will remember from this truly amazing trip.

Up here at almost 6000m/20000ft I finally felt the altitude. I had been the only one left (apart from the local guides) feeling fit and well and relaxed where others where stumbling and fighting to keep going. But now a headache was building up and I felt a little dizzy, almost drunken.
After a hearty sip of fine whisky form my flask and the usual photos we went back to Stella Point and with three others and one of the guides I was in the first group to start the descent down back to Barafu Camp, I just longed to lay my exhausted body to rest.

Down a steep scree slope we more skied than walked and were back in camp just after noon after 11 hours on foot. I crawled into my tent, slumped prone onto my bed and literally passed out within a second.

Looking down on Barafu Camp

Woke up an hour later when the last members of our team arrived in camp. We had a small lunch at 1:30pm, packed and started our long decent down towards Mweka Camp. All of us were happy but very exhausted. Still we had to keep going for a couple more hours.
Downhill may not be very strenuous in itself and the path was quite easy to walk for about an hour and a half to Millenium Camp. But we had to press on for another two hours on a very rocky and in our state quite difficult and thus almost dangerous path down to Mweka Camp.
My legs felt like butter when we finally arrived just after 6pm. I wasn't sure if I could've gone much further anyway. 17 hours with maybe two hours of rest in between. That was easily the longest day of walking I've ever done. EVER! Not counting the elevation even.
Again I slumped face down onto my bed, but couldn't really sleep. We had dinner when the others arrived an hour later and went to bed after around 8pm, happy and completely exhausted.


04.01./05.01. Mweka Camp - Moshi - Amsterdam - Bristol
Heading home

After a good night's sleep we left camp 7:30am for our last walk together. Although we had stood on top of the highest mountain not yet 24 hours ago, it felt like it had been a couple of days in the past.
For about three hours we walked through the magnificent sub-tropical forest. I found myself a spot in between groups walking alone most of the time enjoying the sounds and smells of the forest, marvelling at the plants, the high trees and the solitude only slightly disturbed by porters coming up from behind.
My legs were aching big time from yesterday's strenuous descent. But I didn't mind at all and simply enjoyed a fine walk. A shame I couldn't stay longer.

Bye bye Kili

Back at the gate we were also back in the heat. Within little more than 24 hours we had passed four (?) vegetation zones. Wow! Not to mention the temperature difference. We chilled a bit until our bus was loaded, said good bye to our porters and helpers who performed the famous Kilimanjaro song for us and after an half an hour ride we were back at the hotel. Had lunch with the group and three of our local guides and loads of beer!!! We all got our summit certificates and had some time to kill.

I decided to go into town with three others and delay my hard earned shower for a bit. We just walked around for a bit trying to fend of the fly-pitchers again and found a very lovely souvenir shop in a side street where we could just snoop around without being talked into buying something. Still we did get some stuff. I had to have two shirts which were a real bargain at $7 each.

This is how people in Moshi carry their shopping bags

Walked lazily back, had my much longed for shower at the hotel and was brought to the airport with our guide and three others. The rest of the group stayed for a safari.
Boarded the plane around 10pm, had a change of passeners in Dar-es-Salam and off we went towards Amsterdam. I slept like a log through the first on-board meal and most of the night. Change in Amsterdam was just relaxed this this time. Had a chat over a coffee with one of my new found friends before we said our final goodbyes.

Was back home on the 5th way before noon, changed and craved so much for meat/protein that I walked straight over to one of my favourite burger places to have a supersize double-patty burger, yeah.