The Brothers Rhinog

After my chill out day on Monday I was indeed aching to head into the hills again by Monday night. One thing I had learned on my first solo long distance hike back in 2013: It's not important to stick to the plan. If you don't feel it, don't do it. So despite the fantastic weather I had no regrets cancelling my plans of an overnight wild camp Monday night and instead basically did nothing.

After another lonely night in the bunkhouse I left as early as 8:30am driving to Graigddu-istaf - the same car park we had started day two of the navigation course. I had just fallen in love with the approach along the lengthy single track road over more or less flat ground with the Rhinogs looming in the distance. It is as epic as the drive from Carbost to Glenbrittle on Skye.

Approaching Graigddu-istaf NOT looking forward but out of the driver's window

Had come up with a route on Monday night, but there were certain gaps in it, where I had to find a path since there was none on the map. A bit like a hunt for Easter eggs. But after pretty much a whole day on pathless ground on Sunday, I wasn't too worried anymore since I knew I could just cross heather, moss and grass if need be.

The gravel road through the forest was easy and I took a small detour to avoid a boggy bit. Out of the trees the menacingly steep and rocky North face of Rhinog Fawr loomed directly ahead. Not very inviting, I heard it's doable, but I had a different plan.

I found my first Easter egg path straight away veering off the one leading to the Roman Steps and took it towards Llyn Du which greeted me after just a short climb. Had to have a short break as it was just too nice before I carried on along the North shore, first on a clear path which was soon lost in a huge stone slide.

How can you not stop here

Saw it again after climbing over the huge boulders and found another one of those holes hidden by grass and heather.  Foot went in almost to the knee, I lost my balance, fell back and landed straight on my arse, lucky enough well in time before my leg might have broken.
Got up again cursing the treacherous ground. Followed the vague path all the way around to Rhinog Fawr's West side, found the broader path heading up from the West and followed all the way to the top which came a bit as a sudden surprise.
So far so good I thought as I took in the wide views. Llyn, northern Snowdonia and Cardigan Bay. One of the rare sunny days, eh?

Looking North towards Llyn

And South with Rhinog Fach and Y Llethr

Four older guys reached the top shortly after me, I was a bit surprised to see anyone at all today. Bit of a chat before they headed over to Rhinog Fach. They had come pretty much the same way.... without avoiding the boggy bit in the forest, haha.

Rhinog Fach next for me as well and the trickiest bit of the whole walk: Find a way down and find a way up the next one. There was a path at first which wound down very steeply... very, very steeply. Silently cursing I made my very slow way down.

The way down. Well, down it is indeed.

Eventually I lost it... the path. Found a few sheep's tracks here and there but had to wing it basically. Heather, high grass, uneven rocky ground, more hidden holes. This is what you get when you're not on a path. After what seemed an eternity, but was about 90 minutes, I reached the path that winds its way between both mountains. Phew. Only took me as long as climbing the bugger. Wow, that was fun...not.

I wasn't really in the mood for tackling the next one, but with a weather as good as this, this was my best chance to bagging the top. On the way down I had looked out for a path and thought I'd seen one on one of the slopes/ So up I went on what felt like a sheep's track again. And so it was probably as it vanished pretty soon.
Again I fought my way through heather and bushes, over rock and slippery soil. Upwards was not too bad, but I already dreaded the way down. To prove my point I slipped once more and hurt the ankle I had sprained a few weeks ago in South Wales and which had been bothering me ever since. Boo,

Eventually I emerged on a nice little path. Wha...? It lead up, but also somewhat down northwards. Hm. A way down maybe? As I pondered the same old chaps came down the mountain. They had taken a route straight down Rhinog Fawr, which was every bit a pain my route had been only steeper. But they had found this path which goes all the way down Rhinog Fach to the Bwlch at the bottom. Yeah. So my downwards route was at least not half a fight through wilderness.

Walked up the last bit and made it to the top. Enjoyed the fantastic views again, shame I couldn't go on the Y Llethr ahead and Diffwys after, but I've had it anyway. At least the way down was clear.

On Rhinog Fach, what a fight

Way down took a while as the last bit was steep as hell, but it was a path and I wasn't complaining. More-so my knees and ankle, but I ignored them.

The uninviting wilderness of the Rhinogyyd. Love it and hate it at the same time.

Relief when I reached the path at the bottom again, leading to the wood and the car. Phew. Great day out, but it came with the price of a hurting body and a bit of a hurting ego as well, So far I haven't met a real challenge in terms of hillwaking. This certainly wasn't an easy ride. Took me an hour longer than expected, due to the slow progress downhill.

Still, it's a fantastic remote, rugged and demanding area. I can imagine how tricky it will get when visibility is low. The Rhinogydd is certainly a very special area in Britain. It captured me with its raw beauty and although it was very hard going here and there, I'm sure I will be back. A multi-day traverse comes to mind, with plenty of time to explore. We shall see.