Two-Day Buttermere Roundtrip

With a forecast of fairly good weather on Tuesday and not massively bad weather on Wednesday I set off for Buttermere from my campsite near Keswick planning a two-day roundtrip ticking off some 13 Wainwrights on the way.
Had a coffee in town and then walked on the Cumbrian Way to the foot of Cat Bells where I left the long distance path to climb the ridge instead.

The sun was breaking through the cloud time and again and I was soon in shirt and shorts.
Cat Bells is another one of those low hills offering superb views. On such a fine day it was also a popular one. I quite enjoyed it despite a heavy touring pack today with tent and everything. I had only changed plans on the way and instead of camping booked a bed at YHA Buttermere instead. Kind of like a no brainer for a tenner per night.

The constant stream of people eased once off Cat Bells. I was almost along heading on over Maiden Moor on to High Spy. An icy wind was now constantly blowing negating the warmth of the occasional sun. 

Had a proper break (for me that is around 15 minutes) with some food in a nice place down at Dalehead Tarn sheltered from the wind, then it was time for the main actors to step on stage. Dale Head. An impressive bulk of hill sitting right at the end of Newlands valley and the turning point for the Newlands horseshoe. Sipping once more on my rocket fuel drink I lugged m yself and my backpack up to the top at a steady pulse of 90% of my max.
The view from up there was something else! The Newlands valley, the ridge I'd just come up on, the Scafells, Crummock Water and Fleetwith Pike and many more peaks I cannot name yet. The highlight of the day and so far one of my favourite Wainwrights.

Cat Bells ahead

On High Spy

View from Dale Head

Onwards I went to Hindscarth which was a short detour and then the last one for the day: Robinson.
I navigated over a boggy plain and made it down a fairly steep half stream half path.
I was quite knackered when I finally rolled into Buttermere. 23km and 1300m elevation gain with a heavy backpack had taken their toll. I walked straight to the Syke Farm Cafe and got myself some ice cream made on site. Yum.
Then walked over to the YHA, checked in, had a shower and warmed up my chilli from last night in the microwave. Result. No Wi-Fi meant I browsed the magazines in the lounge for a bit. Went to bed early just being too knackered to hang around much longer.

My sleep on the rather comfy bed was only interrupted by a false fire alarm at 1am. 

Got up at 8am and with wifi working again could confirm that today was supposed to be spent in low cloud with almost zero view. There were supposed to be a few gaps in the cloud here and there but that's it. I pondered my options but in the end I thought "Fuck it. The plan is 'Stick to the plan.' Get on with it."
By 9am I was walking up Whiteless Pike. Quite the calf burner for my weary limbs. Once more the MWIS forecast proved to be a bit pessimistic. It was indeed overcast and a bit chilly but the clouds were no lower than maybe 800m intermittently dropping to maybe 700m.
So yay, I had a view! The ridge of Crag Hill and Sail ahead looked menacing while walking over Wandope. Another detour, equally rewarding as Hindscarth the day before. Another Wainwright nothing more.
Unfortunately, the detour to Grasmore proved to be of equal joy. Having seen it cloud free at times on my way up I didn't get lucky and saw nothing but grey fog. The views over Buttermere, Mell Break, Haystacks and Red Pike must be stunning from this prime position. Not so today.

I turned around and walked back down with nothing more than another hill ticked off.
Next up was Crag Hill which is also called Eel Crag. Stunning views opened up north towards Keswick with the remaining ridge perfectly laid out ahead. I could also see the route I had taken yesterday and I am surely getting to know the area very well. I always admire people who can name any hilltop you point to. It is so much easier when you've been on them.
Down I clambered and up again to Sail, onwards to Scar Crags and Causey Pike to finish my round of 13 Wainwrights. Really enjoyed those last two.

View ahead from Whiteless Pike towards Wandope

Looking back up to Crag Hill

Newlands Valley

So far the weather's been good to me. Some drizzle and some icy wind. That's it. On my way down I got into a longer light rain but only got proper soaked as I fought my way through shoulder high bracken. Man...
Proper knackered again I dragged myself into Braithwaite and enjoyed some lovely Lakes ice cream in the sun on a bench outside the village shop.
Got myself a pint o' Thatchers while waiting for the bus and another one in Keswick. With the sun shining I just had a thirst for it.